So you decided to try a Hammam. What were you thinking? Do you even know what one is? Do you have any idea what the etiquette is at one of these things?
Well, if you are Dave and Deb, the answers to these questions would be no.
How to Survive Your First Hammam
We were in Marrakech Morocco.
The day before we were on a walking tour of the Medina (the old city) and a guy invited us in to check out his hammam.
He was great! He had lived in California for years, spoke perfect English and understood the Western mentality of not wanting a hard sell.
If we look at it and like it, we'll probably come back. So we looked at it, we liked it, and we came back.
So what is a Hammam?
A Hammam is a hot steam bath followed by a massage. Sounds simple enough doesn't it?
Well there's a little more to it than that.
Let me tell you about our day. Dave and I were each led into separate rooms to begin our 90-minute hammam experience.
Dave went to the men's part of the building and I was sent to the women's.
Dave inside the hammam
I followed a petite woman who spoke little English to a change room where I was given disposable underwear, a towel, a robe and some rubber slippers.
She sat me down in a booth and left.
I didn't know if I was to follow after I changed or not and as the confusion set in on my face, a friendly group of women from Malaysia who had just finished their experience told me what to do.
“No time to be shy in here.” They said.
Strip down, sit down and wait. Oh and don't put on that robe, that's for later.
So I sat naked (save for my disposable black underwear) in my cubicle and waited.
We've had our share of strange spa experiences, check out our Ayurvedic Massage in Alleppy
Separate Hammam for Men and Women
Dave followed a guy into another room where he was given a loin cloth.
He indicated that Dave should strip down while he stood and watched and then proceeded to put the loincloth on for him.
If that wasn't awkward enough, the door to reception was open the entire time!
But, in a couple of minutes, he was wrapped up and ready to go. He was sent through a door where he was greeted by a wall of steam. It was here that he did his own waiting for his next instructions.
Dave's ready for his Hammam
“No Cameras Allowed in Hammam, naked people inside“
Back to Deb's Hammam Experience
After a while of sitting alone in my cubicle (the Malaysian women had long gone) a woman came in and took my hand.
She led me to a stool and sat me down.
I guess the early Moroccans didn't believe in bathing themselves, because, in a hammam, you get bathed.
Scorching hot water was poured over my head as she washed my hair and body. I winced and sighed, but she didn't seem to care or take any notice.
Looking for other things to do in Marrakech? Enjoy Remarkable Marrakech, 11 Things to do in The City
After my grime was washed away, (but it seemed that a lot of soap was still sticking to my skin) I was taken by the hand by another woman who led me to the steam room.
She pointed to a corner where I was to sit and it was here that I stayed until my next order was given.
The steam was hotter than any other steam room I've ever been in and as I took deep breaths to try to relax, I also took deep breaths to try to keep myself from bolting out the door.
What's Dave been up to so far in his Hammam?
Dave enjoying his hammam
Dave had the same experience I had of standing awkwardly while he waited, but instead of a cubicle, it was in a steamy room full of massage tables.
He stood half naked in his loin cloth with a stunned look on his face before he was saved and finally lead to his own steam room.
It turns out that Dave had to clean himself instead of being bathed like me.
He was handed some black soap and motioned to rub it all over his body.
Dave obeyed and covered himself in black soap thinking someone would be back. But they never came.
He sat in the steam for another 10 minutes or so as the soap seeped into his pours. “Was I supposed to do this?” he wondered. Can anybody tell me what's going on?
Enjoy this quick video Dave snuck in before his Hammam
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Back to Deb's Hammam
In the meantime after sitting in the steam for what felt like forever during my hammam, I finally let my mind and muscles relax.
I was feeling pretty good. When I saw a faint shadow enter the room of steam, I knew that it was time to go.
I was led out by my hand and was laid down on a marble slab in another hot room where my body was exfoliated.
When I say exfoliated, that's an understatement. It's more like having your skin peeled off with sandpaper.
At one point I was sure that there was a trickle of blood pouring down my leg as she rubbed up and down my calf.
The door to the steam room in the hammam
I had it better than Dave
I didn't have it half as bad as Dave though. When they finally came to get him, he was lead in his loin cloth, to a plastic massage table where he was sanded and scrubbed and slapped around in like a wet fish until there wasn't a scale left on his body.
The male masseurs are tougher on the guys. Dave's skin was stinging as they constantly poured hot water over his body.
He was alarmed when he opened his eyes and saw his skin peeling away. Could there be that many layers coming off or is it just the soap? It's better to close your eyes and pretend you didn't see anything.
Soon enough, you'd be sitting pretty and enjoying the moment you've been waiting for. The Massage.
The Strange Massage Part of the Hammam
It was not like this!
I was still walking around half naked with nothing but my disposable underwear and rubber shoes and Dave was still wrapped up in his loin cloth but things were winding down.
It was time to get our aching muscles worked on.
I was led to yet another room where I was placed on a massage table made of slippery plastic.
I had a half hour massage that was on one hand very relaxing and on the other quite amusing.
The woman kept massaging my breasts. It seemed that with each pass of whichever body part she was massaging, she always made her way to my boobs.
Is She supposed to Massage My Breasts?
All I could think was “That's funny, I didn't think that my boobies held a lot of tension.” But I just laid there and went with it.
I was expecting a much rougher experience, but it was more like a light rub down and I grew frustrated because I really wanted my shoulders and back kneaded out.
Outside in the streets of Marrakech
I was so jealous when I talked to Dave and he told me that his massage was a killer.
He was bent and pulled every which way in positions he didn't even know his body was capable of.
He came out a good 15 minutes later than me with a big grin on his face saying his staple phrase when he loves something “That Was Awesome!”
The awkward moments, the hot steam and the painful soap paid off.
His muscles were loose, his mind was relaxed and he had an experience that he'd never forget.
And maybe never try again. But when you go to Morocco, you'd be crazy not to go to a hammam.
Check out our Top 5 Memorable massages in the world.
The name of the Hammam we stumbled across as we wove through the Medina was Hammam Ziani and you can find out how to get there and experience your own hammam at their website.
Don says
Wonderfully written! Thanks for sharing.
moroccan bath houston says
Moroccan bath is an age old traditional cleansing ritual of Moroccans. It helps to relax the tired nerves and muscles while enhancing the blood circulation of the body.
Gina and Zeke says
We had VERY different experience then most people as well. We got a couples 30 min massage and 30 min hamman. Similar to yours, as they were just massaging my breasts the entire time. But they were also blasting American music, smoking cigarettes, and giggling during the experience.
They basically just threw buckets of water on us, while Zeke was totally nude and I had at least a bikini bottom on, lightly rubbed us down with a small scrubbing mitt, and then threw towels at us.
The whole thing was very bizarre and a LOT different then the one in Turkey to say the least! We have to go back I guess and try another place?? Glad to hear we are not the only ones this happened to! Thanks for sharing!
Dave and Deb says
Haha! We didn’t have the blasting music, but that definitely adds to the weirdness. And no way, cigarettes? That’s the worst. Sometimes I think they’re just messing with us all. 😀
Emma says
Having our first family hammam tomorrow!! Let’s hope it’s as fun as yours 🙂
Journey of a Nomadic Family
Location de voiture casablanca says
My hilarious Moroccan hammam experience ?? My first stop in the last travel nel sud was Marrakech and there I tried a fantastic hammam I am curious to hear all about your experience!
Jamila El Maroudi says
Going to the hammam is a communal experience in Morocco. Most important life events are celebrated in the hammam. To find out more about authetnic moroccan hammams check out my blog on my website http://www.mirashand.com.au.
Grace Arcarese says
I have visited many different hammams in Morocco, each visit was wonderful and diverse. It was also a social meeting with the village women,very interesting to learn about their culture. They were glad to see me because I was a Canadian tourist and were pleased that I wanted to learn about their lives. I will never forget how beautiful these women were both physically and spiritually. It was a place where women felt united and not afraid to share information, they have a strong connection to each other,a lesson western women should learn.I felt empowered every time I went to the hammam, I saw women taking care of each other and even taking care of me . Their laughter was contagious and filled my heart with joy. There were many awesome moments, once I heard loud singing and music , a family of women were bringing a bride to be into the hammam, it was wonderful to see how they washed her and took care of her while laughing and giving her advice on her first night with her husband to be. I strongly recommend you go to one , there are hammam for men and hammams for women.
Esme says
The hammam in Essaouira was one of the highlights of the trip to Morocco. But, I was glad to do it with a friend (I travel solo most of the time) because it’s confusing and hilarious. When they snuck up on me with a bucket of water I screamed (am not the screamy type). The feeling afterwards is great, like you’ve had an all-body pedicure.
Anyone know of a good hammamin Istanbul?
Mica says
Wow, this sounds like quite the experience. Not your usual ‘massage’ day. And seriously whats up with the hard scrubbing? Did your skin feel silky smooth after all that peeling?
Discount Travel Blogger says
That would be a fun and hilarious experience! I can just imagine!
Dave Bouskill says
Whatever you can imagine is what it was like 🙂
Nienke says
What a great read, haha. I’ve never been to hammam, but you totally convinced me to get a painful, awkward, sweaty experience too. I’ve added the post to my new series of inspirational lifestyle & travel stories, to read for more sadist people.
Andrea says
I went to a hammam in Istanbul and had a pretty similar experience! What’s with the boo massage? I was thinking the same thing… and my stomach NEVER needs massaging than you very much! Overall it was relaxing and funny and definitely an experience that I won’t soon forget… Sounds like it was about the same for you guys too!
Casey @ A Cruising Couple says
This is hilarious! I really regret missing out an a hammam last time I was in Morocco-guess I’ll have to go back for one now that I’m a little more prepared 🙂
A Cook Not Mad says
So how much does one have to pay to get slapped around like a wet fish?
Dave Bouskill says
It cost only 35 Euro to be slapped around. Not bad eh??
debndave says
Haha, it ranges from a few dollars to about $20. We paid €20 Euro at this one I believe. It was a bit pricier, but a long experience and a very clean hammam.
Melissa McKinley says
That is exactly how it is, a love ~ hate experience with no time for modesty. It is fabulous and you always feel like a new person when done. I could easily see doing this on a regular basis! When I last visited Morocco I had 2 hammam experiences as each region of Morocco is a bit different. Loved them both!! My local Moroccan friend said they typically do it as they can afford it, he was a once a month kind of guy which meant he is doing well.
debndave says
Thanks for the comment Melissa. SO true, you do feel fabulous after the experience and once we did it again, we were much more comfortable. I was the one helping the people with the confused looks on their faces 🙂 I have heard the same thing that people go at least once a month in Morocco. Nice!
Sam says
Sounds wonderful! I couldn’t make it work to go to a hammam when I was in Syria and Jordan, mostly because I couldn’t find one where I was able to work out how anything worked, or indeed how much it would cost. Sounds like you found the perfect balance between an authentic experience and foreigner friendliness!
debndave says
I think you definitely caught the idea of what I was trying to say. It was funny and confusing, but definitely a great blend of authentic and foreigner friendly. It was worth doing and we’d do it again. We did do it again in Istanbul as a matter a fact 🙂
Jeremy Branham says
I don’t mind the awkward half nudity (especially if there aren’t other people around). However, this doesn’t sound like the best experience in the world. Getting skin scrubbed off like that seems like a rough experience. Dave got the better message but I don’t see this as relaxing. Do many Moroccans do this? It doesn’t seem like an enjoyable experience but maybe the more you do it, the more you get used to it.
debndave says
HAHA, It is pretty crazy. The scrubbing can be quite rough. I think I had worse scrubbing than Dave, but then he had a rougher massage than me. So it all balanced out. Yes, many Moroccans do this. They do it actually on a regular basis from once a month to a few times a month. It’s a popular activity. You must do it when you go. I hope you give it a try. It’s fun and funny!
Salika Jay says
Hahaha…I couldn’t stop laughing at most of the parts. As awkward as it was, it’s good to know that it’s worth it, although I doubt I want to try that. Guess I’m too shy and I’d be happy with just a shoulder and foot massage.
debndave says
Haha, I’m so glad you laughed. I was hoping to capture the humour of the experience but I never know if it is coming off tongue in cheek or not. So I feel good thatyou got it. You have to try it. It’s a crazy fun experience and you do feel really good after the fact. You just have to take a big breath and go with the flow.
Andi Perullo de Ledesma says
I've only been to a hammam once and it was in Miami, so thankfully instructions were told to me in English. 🙂
Dave Bouskill says
You are one of the luck ones 🙂