It is the most fascinating festival you will ever witness. Thaipusam is a Hindu Festival that happens every January or February. It is celebrated by the Tamil community in Sri Lanka, India, Singapore and Mauritius. But nowhere celebrates it as big as Malaysia.
Celebrated during the full moon of the Tamil month of Thai, Thaipusam draws thousands of devotees paying their respects to the Lord Muruga. It is a colourful and shocking Hindu festival where devotees pierce themselves with pins and spikes, hang pots and fruit off of their chests with hooks and pull chariots or people hanging onto heavy rope attached to their backs by hooks.
Thaipusam Festival Malaysia Asia
It is a day of celebration as devotees pray to the Lord Muruga for good luck in the coming year. They thank him for a wish that was granted this past year or as I read in the paper, for the good grades they received in school.
The ages range from the very young. Babies have their heads shaves and piercings were as young as a 13 year girl to old men well into their 70’s. They are offering penance to Lord Muruga for their own and various reasons.
We have had the privilege to experience two Thaipusam Festivals. Our first was at the Batu Caves near Kuala Lumpur in 2004, our second was Penang’s Celebrations in 2011.
There weren’t as many people in Penang as there were in Kuala Lumpur. Over a million people make their way to the Batu Caves where as 20,000 people visit the waterfall temple in Penang.
Different But Shocking
For a first time Thaipusam attendee, we would suggest going to the Batu Caves. It is far more exciting and energetic.
The crowds are bigger and the devotees are far more outlandish and flamboyant. At the Batu Caves, people seemed to be in a more crazed state of trance. Their eyes were wild and void of recognition. The energy is more animalistic and frenzied.
In Penang, it is more reserved. The crowds are smaller, the devotees are calm and relaxed. You feel as if you could walk up and talk to them, to ask them how they are feeling. They are in a trance, but seem to be very aware and present at the same time.
Watching Thaipusam from Penang
We could walk right up to devotees and take extreme close ups of their faces and backs. We didn’t have to fight the crowd of a million people to catch a glimpse of a worshipper.
We enjoyed the quieter energy. The devotees were just as devoted and impressive, there were just fewer and farther in between.
The pilgrimage route to the temple was shaded by trees and the steps to the top of the temple was shorter and less crowded.
We stood right beside a group from China and watched their handlers take care of their open wounds. They bathed them with water and guarded the long spikes sticking out of their cheeks.
We felt that we could study Thaipusam and felt more a part of it rather than the far away observer that we were in Kuala Lumpur.
While I would never change my first experience of Thaipusam at the Batu Caves, I was grateful to be a part of the procession, the breaking of coconuts for good luck in the year ahead and an up close and personal observer of Amazing Thaipusam in Penang.
As my husband and I share a beer with a couple from England in the superbly preserved Malaysian city of Penang, I learn that we happen to have stumbled into the country at the most exciting time of the year.
It is the end of January and in a weeks time Thaipusam, a sacred Hindu Festival, will be in full swing all over the land!
We make plans to meet in Kuala Lumpur where the largest congregation of people will converge for a three-day festival at the Batu Caves.
Shocking Asia, Malaysia’s Thaipusam
According to the papers, 1.5 million people will be attending the Thaipusam pilgrimage this year and we are in the heart of the action. Staying at a guesthouse in Chinatown, we are only two blocks from the start of the procession where worshippers pay tribute to the Lord Muluga.
At midnight, devotees will begin the 13km walk from downtown Kuala Lumpur to the base of the Caves following his Golden Chariot. It is here that they will be put into a trance and begin their journey up the 272 steps to the entrance of this vast chamber.
People take part in Thaipusam for different reasons. Some to give thanks for a miracle which has happened in their lives, others to ask for a wish to be granted or to rid themselves of their sins by carrying burdens and piercing their bodies. However, this is not your ordinary everyday piercing.
These devoted people have a Priest drive spikes through their cheeks and tongues or insert hooks into their backs and chests on which they hang various fruit or milk pots to add to the discomfort. Some people carry Kevadi’s; giant cumbersome alters made of steal decorated with vibrant ribbons and peacock feathers, while others simply carry a pot full of coconut milk upon their heads to take to the cave as an offering. A feat in itself due to the heat and number of people they have to push through.
We arrive at the Batu Caves 24 hours after the procession begins in the middle of the night by local bus. Drums are beating and people are chanting “Vel Vel” as the overwhelming crowd pushes forward towards the cave high in a cliff overhead.
It feels like a dream as you sway in the intense heat among the squeeze of people. I work my way out of the procession to the safety of a drainage pipe over looking the masses for as far as the eye can see watching in awe as people pass. Their wide eyes seeing through me as I snap my camera.
Sometimes devotees will break into a wild dance or let out a primal scream. Others are more playful and dance to the music putting beetle nut on the foreheads of onlookers.
They seem to be connected to something ancient and powerful feeling no pain and experiencing little fatigue due weeks of meditation, a strict diet and then finally a fast to help them prepare for this important event.
We are so enthralled with Thaipusam that we take the bus back to the caves the following morning. Exhausted from the night before and working on only 2 hours of sleep, we haul ourselves out of bed to experience for a second time this once in a lifetime opportunity
The daylight hours take away a bit of the eeriness and we feel a little braver under the bright sky. Hooks and spikes are bigger, kevadi’s are more ornate, and the worshippers are as committed as ever.
We have managed to join the procession this time walking up the steep flight of stairs with thousands of other people to enter the caves. The sun is overwhelming and it is a relief to reach the cool darkness.
It is here that we are treated to an intimate view of people coming out of their trances, having their hooks and piercing removed and to watch some mischievous monkeys fight for bananas.
In a roped off area, each person reacts differently to the effects of their difficult task. Some people faint once they have finished their pilgrimage and are surrounded by loved ones who massage feeling back into their arms and legs as they lie on the rocky floor. Some bleed as their hooks are extracted from their backs and chests, but most of the time, not a drop of blood is spilled.
It is said that their deep trance and strict preparations, stop the flow. Priests carefully take out the spikes and hooks, stuffing the wounds with ash and disinfecting them with lime. It looks painful, but they seem oblivious.
The cave is quiet and calm, a contrast to the enormous energy and excitement of outside. Their ordeal is over and burdens are lifted. It seems almost anticlimactic to watch people talking casually, laughing with each other or walking calmly around the cave, taking in the sights.
The festival has come to an end and the only thing left is the long procession back to Kuala Lumpur where the Golden Chariot will return to it’s home at the Sri Mahamariamman Temple.
Back to Normal Life
People will resume their lives as bankers or students, fathers and sisters feeling cleansed of their sins, released of their burdens and grateful for the opportunity to thank their Lord for a wish that he has granted.
We take the bus back to Kuala Lumpur and arrive in Chinatown for the final festivities of Chinese New Year. Dragon and lion dances are taking place in the street, and once again, I find myself in a sea of people. Only this time, the mood is completely different.
People are laughing and cheering as the talented acrobats perform overhead. Children are boosted onto shoulders for a better view and lively drums are being played with enthusiasm.
It is an exciting time of year to be in Malaysia experiencing its rich culture to the fullest. Thaipusam happens yearly in Malaysia at the end of January or beginning of February throughout the country. Check Malaysia tourism at www.malaysiatoursism.com for more information.
Chinese New Year takes place near the end of January.
You can fly to Kuala Lumpur from Toronto via Malaysia Airlines for $1200 for a return flight.
Here is our video from 2004. When we get some time 2011 will come out too.
It was 6 years ago at this time that we were introduced and shocked by the amazing festival called Thaipusam. We were sitting in Penang when we met two other travelers that told us about this crazy festival where people put spikes through their cheeks and hooks in their backs. We made a plan to meet them in Kuala Lumpur to check it out and it was an amazing event.
This incredible event is happening tomorrow all over Malaysia and Singapore. Pilgrims pay homage to the Lord Muruga for different reasons as they make their pilgrimage to the Batu Caves carrying heavy Kevadis, pulling chariots and suffering through heat and exhaustion.
We didn’t think that we would ever witness another Thaipusam, but we find ourselves back in Malaysia at the very time it is happening again. Tomorrow we are witnessing our second Thaipusam in our lifetime.
This time in Penang. We hear that it is quite different here than in KL and we look forward to making a comparison between the two places.
This is by far the most fascinating festival we have ever taken part in and we look forward again to being observers in the Mighty Hindu Festival known as Thaipusam.