Shopping Morocco, A Trying Tale of Two Carpets
By Gail Burgin
There is a lot to say about Morocco, the guidebooks do a good job of filling you in on how to get there, where to stay, what to eat and see, and generally most of what they tell you is true. Although we spent time in Marrakesh, Meknes, Casablanca, Rabat and Tangier, all with their own brand of charm and interest, it is to Fes that I would return.
For it was in Fès where I had the unique experience of seeing a people who were in complete harmony with today’s modernity and their historical and cultural past.
- Modern and History Collide in Fes
Getting to Fès, the second largest city in Morocco, can be a long but interesting journey. The roads have been newly paved, so it’s a comfortable ride where you can see the fertile countryside, the many rag tag villages and towns, and the people who watch impassively as you speed by.
On October 21, 2010, I wrote this in my journal:
“Fès, Morocco: This morning I was crushed by throngs of people carrying bags full of groceries, assaulted by smells I could never describe, stepped in several kinds of poo, almost fell into an open pit, had my foot stepped on by a donkey, cried silent tears when I saw the horrific working conditions of the leather tanners, had one of the most frightening and expensive experiences of my life, and can say without a doubt that I (mostly) loved every minute of it.
The medina in Fès, the oldest in the world, is a living, breathing, labyrinth of a city, enclosed by a wall which limits its physical size but not apparently its population because 500,000 people live within this space.
It’s interesting that I don’t mention anything further about that “frightening and expensive experience”, and upon reflection, I think it was just too intense and overwhelming to write about it so soon after it happened.
When you arrive in Morocco you know you must leave your Western ways and assumed certainties behind, but no matter how prepared you think you are, nothing prepares you for the carpet sellers.
Abdul, our tour guide, a pleasant, knowledgeable guy, seemed very western to us, despite wearing a traditional djellaba (caftan) and bernousse (cap).
Overwhelming Crowds in the Medina
As he guided us through the medina he gave us a little history lesson and we learned that the narrow, labyrinth street design was a defence against enemy invaders — anyone entering the medina did so at the risk of never finding their way out.
As is typical in Morocco, exteriors are plain beyond simple and belie the sumptuous and beautiful interiors — a metaphor for the Muslin belief that all beauty lies within. But still, it was a surprise when Abdul led us through a very small door and we found ourselves in a large room with a gorgeous skylight, its walls covered floor to ceiling with carpets. Within two strides of our entering the room we are introduced to Mohamed, who seemed to appear from nowhere.
In one complete breathe, he asks – “Where are you from? Do you like Morocco? What are your names?, he gives orders to the ceiling for mint tea, and he yells something to the walls in Arabic. In 4 seconds two people arrive and simultaneously throw carpets at our feet – a cacophony of colour unfurling before our eyes.
Mohamed scoops up one of the carpets and brings it to my face, “Can you see the detail in this carpet? Four women worked on this carpet at the same time. Look! Look at the stitching, one woman went blind while making this carpet. If you buy this carpet, you will be helping 1000 people – a whole village!! Every stitch is done by hand. It is only 6,000!”
I squeek out – 6000 dirhams? ($1,800. Cnd). No, not dirhams, Euros. 6000 Euros!! That’s $8000 Cnd!
By this time we are surrounded by no less than six people, one person is guiding us to walk on the carpets, someone else is serving us tea, two people are continuously throwing carpets at our feet. Mohamed is IN MY FACE repeating over and over the value and provenance of the carpets, and Abdul, all pretense of westernism tossed aside, is speaking into my ear – “How much do you want to pay? 4000? 3000? You can trust these people, they have the best carpets in Morocco!!” Then I am separated from Frank who is immediately engulfed by his own team of carpet sellers.
I blurt out, “How can 1000 people be involved in this carpet – I can’t believe it”.
Without missing a beat, Mohamed pushes the carpet back up into my face – “Look at the stitches, look at the colours. The four women who made this carpet support eight families, LOOK AT THE STITCHES every one made by hand!! 100 people take care of the sheep, 100 people work the land, 100 people take care of the donkeys, 100 people take the wool from the sheep, 100 people spin the wool, 100 people dye the wool. THE WOMEN, THEY GO BLIND MAKING THESE CARPETS!! And Abdul keeps repeating into my ear – “Buy two carpets, you’ll get a better deal, two is better, yes, two!”
I shout: “Two!! How much for two?” From across the room Frank is mouthing the word “TWO??”
I say, “1000!!! We can only afford 1000 Euros.” Abdul is by my arm and he has switched sides again to support my efforts. From the high of 6000 Euros for one carpet, we are haggling over 1000 Euros for two. Mohamed retrieves Frank who is dragged forward and asked, “What is wrong with your wife, how can I sell two carpets for 1000 Euros. It has to be 2000 – I am beggaring myself, think of the blind women, 2000 it must be.” Frank and I look at each other, acknowledging that we should just give in, so he nods his head in assent and is immediately whisked off by Mohamed to pay.
Within seconds, someone we have not seen before takes over the circus and with one flick of his hand, two young men emerge with lengths of rope in their hands. I’m thinking, “OMG! They’re going to tie me up.”
Our two carpets, both approximately 3ft x 10ft, are expertly rolled and tied up into two 10” x 20” packages by the rope guys. Again, a flick of the wrist and an old man with a large black marker in his hand appears. He politely asks my name and writes it on the packages in perfect calligraphy.
And it came to me that Mohamed’s ancestors probably sold carpets along the Silk Road, and that every person in the room was part of his tribe including Abdul. Their actions were so practiced, precise and aggressive. Nothing in my past experience prepared me for this onslaught, at one point I feared we would never escape, we would be lost forever in the medina – and possibly thrown down a pit to join the skeletons of those long dead invaders.
Our Grand Cat on our New Carpet
We ended up paying 4000 Euros or $6000 Cnd for two carpets, — it turns out it was 2000 Euros per carpet that Mohamed beggared himself for — and we comforted ourselves with the knowledge we improved the lives of a thousand Moroccans. (I wish)
And as the months and the sting of spending $6000 have passed by, whenever we walk on our gorgeous Moroccan carpets, we are filled with nostalgia for more travel.
Do you have a tale to tell where you greatly overpaid for a product on your travels? Have you ever had a scary situation where you felt out of control? Share your stories with us.
Gail Burgin started her blog during her recent travels through Europe. She shared her journal entries with friends and family while her husband Frank Merino, took the photographs. It was during that time that she realized she developed a knack for writing and has enjoyed continuing on with sharing her stories. We are lucky to have her write about her experience in Morocco with us today.
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Morocco is definitely high up on my ‘places to visit’ list. Although I’m a bit terrified by these sorts of situations. I am a horrible haggler and had a similar situation to this in India with some very over-priced jewellery. In the end it was all part of the experience and when I wear my bracelet, I think of the exciting adventure of visiting India for the first time and not about how much I paid for my bangle. Great story and love the carpet!
We haven’t been to Morocco yet either, but ware very excited to go soon. We’ve overpaid for many things as well. Mostly we don’t buy anything of value, so we only end up cursing ourselves for going over 10 or 20 bucks, but no matter how much we are ripped off, it stings either way. It’s always a good learning experience and I love posts like this because it is a good reminder for us all. We now know what to expect when we visit the Medinas in Morocco.
Oddly enough my story also includes carpet. On a trip to Beijing a few years ago, I made the mistake of telling our driver that I was in the flooring business in the States. “Oh…well I must show you a place on our return” he says. We stop at shop and inside were thousands of silk carpets. Immediately I was bombarded by the owners of the shop, attempting to get me to purchase (and have them ship home) a 9×12′ area rug for $8000. After many attempts to simply leave, I soon realized there was no way I was leaving without buying something. Finally, I was shown a 3×5 rug and managed to haggle the price down to $450. It was a good price for a silk rug for sure, but being in the business, the last thing I needed was another area rug….
Wow, that’s a good lesson for all of us. Never tell anyone your in the flooring business
to world of deej: the most interesting thing about our carpet experience is not that we learned to become good hagglers, but that in the overwhelming process of the sell, we didn’t really get a good look at the carpets. i know this sounds very naive and quite stupid, something neither of us are, however it wasn’t until we got home that we were able to appreciate the real beauty of the carpets and the artistry that went into making them. and every stitch is done by hand. so the real lesson is to really look at what you are being offered and while doing so block out the chaos around you, it might dispel it enough for you to make a proper decision. i know we overpaid for the carpets, but this doesn’t stop me from lying full length on them, glass of wine in hand, examining with awe the intricate and beautiful work.
I love haggling as much as any shopper, and have picked up some great bargains around the world, but I know better than to step inside any carpet shop anywhere…..Abdul may have been claiming to beggar himself, but he likely still made a 1000% markup…
Another thing I’ve learned is that when I just want to ‘window shop’ and don’t intend to buy (or get strong-armed into buying) something I don’t need, then I only take the minimum amount of cash I need to get a cold drink and a cab back to my hotel…..shopkeepers don’t bother with me once they find out I have no way to pay!
I think you are right Trisha, that sounds like he made a pretty penny that day. We have done your recommendation before as well. Whenever we walk through a market, we don’t carry much cash and sometimes just keep a bit of cash stuffed in a pocket and don’t carry any bags. When people are being too aggressive, we simply way we don’t have any money on us. Sorry:)
Most people think Marrakesh because of the song, but the Fez medina is the jewel of Morocco and as close as one can get to taking a time machine into the middle ages. We loved Fez, deep into the Sahara and the rural areas of Morocco.
We travel light ( just a small carry-on each) and have been traveling the world non-stop for the last 6 years ( 42 countries on 5 continents) on just 23 dollars a day per person, so we don’t buy much. Our focus is on experience.
We mostly shop with our eyes and take photos. We loved watching the many hand-made crafts being so artfully done in Morocco, but only bought a traditional outfit and leather shoes for our 6 year old world traveler to remember our stay.
Hi Guys,
We publish the most widely read site on Fez and Morocco (around 2000 visitors each day) and we loved your cautionary tale about carpets. We would love permission to publish an extract (with a link back to your site, of course). It would be good to also know a little more about you!
Cheers
Sandy & Suzanna
The View from Fez
Cheers Sandy and Suzanna. you can contact us through our contact page for to discuss further. Thanks for asking, we appreciate you leaving the message.
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This brought back such memories! The ex and I had a very similar experience some years back, though I think that there seemed to be less people involved! The ex was convinced that there was something “extra” in the mint tea, because he reckoned he could barter with anyone and get the best of it! My best part, however, was when the guide took us to buy kaftans and to the herbalists …. I could have spent fortunes in both places!
So did you end up buying a rug? It is amazing how that little cup of tea can make you lose all judgement. We’ve been there too, people are so nice and so good at their jobs, it is easy to get talked into buying something. It’s tough to stay strong sometimes.
Have to agree with Fes being the most wonderful of Moroccan cities and the tannery is an experience in itself.
I have probably paid a little over the odds once or twice but like you also feel it is probably appropriate when the traders are looking after large families in basically abject poverty, but I do always bear in midn they would not leave themselves short ever.
If they are too greedy however and start with an insulting price I walk away there is always another shop around the corner. In Marrakech a trader started at 920 Dh for a djellaba I took it off and walked away, he did not give up however asked me how much I would pay. I politely informed him it was now beyond negotiation he had not been respectful and it was not how friends which he kept referring to me as treated each other.
However he jumped out on me at least five more times during my tour around the souks each time the starting price had dropped, but I remained firm. Eventually i bought a djeballa the next day for 120 Dh, even the owner of my Riad was impressed.
I enjoy haggling as long as it is polite, respectful and enjoyable for both parties.
Agreed Iain. We enjoy haggling, but when they start so high that it is inappropriate, we walk away as well. I don’t mind cutting the price in half and having friendly banter, but when someone asks a ridiculous price thinking that they can get me to part with my hard earned money, we give a little chuckle and tell them we’re moving on. Good for you for sticking to your guns and then coming back the next day. it is important to be respectful both ways.
What a wonderful account of Morocco. Your descriptions are fantastic, I feel like I came along for the trip! I remember a similar experience in Turkey. We were walking along a street in Selcuk when a man inside a carpet shop invited us in to take a look. He tried to get us interested in something, but the moment I heard the prices ($500 USD+) we had to leave the shop…as beautiful as the rugs were and as wonderful as it would have been to buy one, my travel budget wouldn’t allow it. I haggled and bought a ceramic vase for $20 from the place next door!
Thanks for sharing your story! I loved it.
Hey Gaby, $20 is a about our budget too. We have so many amazing things from around the world for about $20 bucks
Hi Gaby: Believe me, our travel budget never included carpets, never mind the $6000. And we were surprised they took American Express. There was a moment when we were hoping AMEX would turn down the transaction — our AMEX history was mostly for modest purchases. We borrowed from our line of credit to pay the AMEX bill and never looked back.
I love your story, it made me smile. Fes, medina the largest medina in Morocco can be confusing to navigate and therefore guide is highly recommend it to walk you through the maze of narrow alleyways, cobbled streets. Walking through the streets it feels as you have step back in time except the satellite dishes that suggest that perhaps indeed you are in 21st century. The variety of produce that you can buy from the souks from the pile of spices, sweets that you can not even see as they being attack by hordes of bees, goats brain, tongues… The list is endless and it all mixes into this strange smell. Fes is fascinating and unique city. But unfortunately you have to come prepare to Fes. If you hiring a guide, please make sure that is is someone reputable and will not walk you store to store. If you are walking in the medina be firm to the people offering you guiding services, taking you to restaurants or anything else. Everyone and anyone seems to get part of the money you spend. Therefore they all work in union to get you spend as much you can.
Great Advice Jana, thanks for reiterating to come prepared and to be firm. It is important. We all want to be nice, but sometimes it is the being nice that allows us to be taken advantage of. We cannot wait to go to Morocco. I hope that we can fit it into our travel plans soon!
I can’t believe you gave in and bought them!
For 4k, I would have insisted on owning the shop and their homes!
Well, at least you have some beautiful rugs…
I have to say that I agree Sanny, but then again sometimes these situations can be veery overwhelming and people aren’t thinking straight when under that kind of pressure. It is brave to share the story with everyone to warn other travellers about the experience. Cheers.
Sanny, looking back it does seem unbelievable, especially if you knew how extensively we’ve travelled (my husband even lived in India for 3 years). I think it was a combination of sensory deprivation (all external stimuli was abnormal/unfamiliar) and an underlying sense of danger that created the perfect storm for our carpet adventure. But have no regrets — and would love to return to Fes and Morocco.
YIKES that is a tough situation! I am a huge pushover and suck at bargaining so I would of probably walked out of there with 6 carpets!
I really like how you keep a journal on the road. I have never owned a journal but I think it is a great idea to invest in one before my husband and I start our trip in January. Being able to go back and read about your daily experiences on the road is invaluable!
Meg, i used my little ipod as my journal. i also downloaded a little app that allowed me to view pdf files, so i kept all our reservations and other travel details in one place. i found myself writing every night and it was surprising to me how useful it was to capture impressions rather than specific details. our photos were the compendium and my journal was the perfect companion piece.
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One can quite amazingly enjoy shopping in Morocco to its fullest as flights to Morocco will surely turn out to be simply spectacular for the shopoholics.