My wife and I were on California’s Catalina Island in late spring of this year, checking out a place I used to be able to see from my dormitory window during my college days but had never been to.
We’d had a delightful time checking out the sleepy waterfront town of Avalon on foot and in an electric golf cart (visitors aren’t allowed to bring cars over on the ferry, and even locals have limits on automobile usage). We’d had a lovely stay at the Hotel Atwater, eaten some fine meals, toured the boutique shops, and paddled kayaks in the Pacific Ocean.
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Catalina Island
The tourism folks for Catalina and the Catalina Express ferry team also suggested a hike, which sounded splendid, and arranged for a guide to pick us up. As it turned out, the regular guide couldn’t make it, so they brought in a local fellow named Pastor Lopez to drive us to the hiking area.
Lopez, who’s in his mid-70s and was dressed in jeans, a black t-shirt, and a weathered baseball cap, showed us around the town. He told us how he had served in Vietnam and developed cancer, likely due to the military’s use of Agent Orange. As we began to make our way into the hills above town, he said he was born and raised in Avalon (population roughly 3,300 on a good day) had six kids, and that he was an avid surfer.
I took an instant liking to him. I took an almost instant dislike to the road he was driving on.
Stressed Out
Avalon sits at the base of some pretty steep mountains, and the only way out of town is on very twisting, turning roads. I have a fear of heights, and I was distinctly unhappy at how close we were to a pretty severe slope that looked like the side of a Himalayan cliff to a wuss like me.
“Is it like this all the way,” I said to Pastor as I tried to look away from the scenery.
“Um,” he replied. “It’s actually worse up ahead.”
I felt like an utter fool, but I had to pull the chute.
“Pastor, I’m sorry. I can’t handle this road. I really can’t. We need a plan B.”
Plan B
He quickly came up with a new program for the morning, taking us to a scenic lookout that offered fine views from a rounded, gentle slope. I stood safely on the hill, with dusty chaparral at my feet, and gazed out at the island. To my right, I could see the red tile roof of the rounded, beautiful Catalina Casino, with the blue Pacific as a perfect backdrop. To my left, I could see an olive-green point of land that guards Two Harbors, which is both a bay and a town of maybe 300 souls. It’s the only community on Catalina Island other than Avalon.
Exploring The Haypress Reservoir
As he chatted with a friend of his (I soon began to think he knew everyone on the island), Lopez told us there was a small, pretty lake nearby. Perhaps I’d like to walk down the road to the lake and check it out.
Not knowing there were freshwater lakes on the island and knowing I’d be walking on a wide road without any perilous cliffs in sight, I decided that was a marvelous idea.
Fifteen minutes later, I was standing with my wife and Lopez at the side of a pretty body of water called Haypress Reservoir. Small hills dotted with light green brush swooped down on both sides of the water under a pure blue sky dotted with puffy white clouds.
And that’s when I got lucky. As Lopez, my wife, and I were chatting by the shore of the lake, a woman pulled up in her car.
Locals Make The Travel Experience
“Oh, hey, Pastor. I thought you might be out surfing, but I saw your truck and thought I’d say hi.”
Lopez introduced us to local artist Robin Cassidy, who is responsible for many of the tiles on the pretty fountains in Avalon.
“She designed the ones that still look good,” he said with a laugh.
Both Cassidy and Lopez were born and raised on the island, and the banter flows as easily as a first-rate Hollywood script, which makes sense given how the likes of Marilyn Monroe and John Wayne spent so much time on the island.
Cassidy tells me the original tiles she used in the fountains are highly valuable.
“When I did those in the old days, it required uranium to get some of the colours.” She paused for dramatic effect. “For some reason, nobody wants to sell it to me anymore.”
Cassidy runs Silver Canyon Pottery on the edge of Avalon and holds tile-making classes the public can take.
As we chatted about her tile work, Cassidy told me visitors and island residents asked her if she signed the tiles she made for the fountains.
“Why on earth would I do that?” she asks, which makes me think that “unassuming” has a new poster child.
Wildlife on Catalina Island
As we stand under the shade of a sturdy tree by the water, Lopez and Cassidy swap stories about lost hikers and about the island’s famous bison and mule deer. The bison were brought in for the making of a Western movie back in the 1920s and quickly multiplied. The island has perhaps only 150, which you can see by taking a Catalina Bison Expedition.
The deer are another story. They were brought to the island for sport hunting and, without any natural predators, soon multiplied like, well, rabbits. Some say there are a couple thousand and that they’re ruining the island’s natural environment. There have been moves to cull the herd, and when I was there, some officials were talking about shooting them from a helicopter.
Lopez was incensed at the idea, which I read later was dropped like a steaming hot potato.
“There aren’t 2,000 of them, and they don’t hurt a thing,” he said. “Someone once challenged me about the deer. They asked me if I had a PhD. And I said, ‘No, but I have lived on this island my whole life. In my book, that’s worth a lot more than a degree.’”
Having swatted away the “too many deer” arguments, Lopez and Cassidy start telling me about their top island hikes. Both tell me Silver Canyon is an exceptional experience, but only for those who are tough and who know the island.
“It’ll kick your ass if you’re not careful,” Cassidy said.
Avalon on Catalina Island
It was time for us to head back to town, so we clambered into Lopez’s truck, and I closed my eyes for the ride down the hill. At least this time I was facing the side of a hill, and not gazing out over the dropoff.
As we got back into Avalon, Lopez regaled us with stories about William Wrigley Jr., the chewing gum magnate who bought almost every share of what was then called the Santa Catalina Island Company until he owned a controlling interest. He invested millions to make it a tourist attraction, building the Hotel Atwater, a since-closed aviary called Bird Park, and much more.
In 1921, he made Avalon the spring training home of the Chicago Cubs, who worked out in spring here for 30 years. In 1929, Wrigley built the handsome Catalina Casino, which boasts the world’s largest circular ballroom and the first theatre purposely designed to show talking motion pictures. Hollywood’s biggest stars used to take the ferry 26 miles across the sea for a glamorous night out.
Lopez told me Errol Flynn was a frequent visitor, as was John Wayne. Western author Zane Grey had a house on a hill in Avalon, and movie star Tom Mix had a home below it. Grey didn’t like Mix, Lopez said. To get even, Mix wrote his last name in big letters on the roof of his house so Flynn would be reminded of his neighbour.
In 1975, Wrigley’s descendants deeded 42,000 acres of Catalina Island to the Catalina Island Conservancy, a non-profit organization they had established three years earlier.
“The Wrigley’s cared deeply about this place,” Lopez told me. “It seems more about money now, and the chains are moving in. It’s not like it was.”
Still, there’s a lot to be said for living in a very small town like Avalon. Not only is there a near perfect climate and marvelous nature all around, it’s also a close-knit community.
“You don’t steal in Avalon,” Lopez said with a firm tone in his voice. “You don’t lie. Everyone knows each other, so there’s a real sense of honesty here. And respect.”
The lights and big city action of Los Angeles are a mere 60 minutes to the east by boat, but this is a wondrously quiet, throwback kind of place that feels a world away. From the day I first spotted the island from my distant dorm window, it took me 50 years to get to this place. Now, I can’t wait to get back.
How To Visit Catalina Island And What To See
Getting There: The Catalina Express operates ferries to Avalon from Long Beach, San Pedro, and Dana Point, which is just south of Laguna Beach in Orange County. You can also take a boat from San Pedro to the town of Two Harbors in Catalina. We left from Long Beach, where they’re opening a posh new Fairmont hotel (Breakers) in the coming weeks.
My wife and I had Commodore Lounge Access on the ferry, which gave us a free drink on board (including beer, wine, or a cocktail) and snacks, such as cookies or chips. The seats are quite comfortable, with a fold-down tray for your drinks and food. The crossing takes roughly one hour.
One of the things you’ll see in the Long Beach Harbor is the Queen Mary ship, which has been docked here since the 1970s. Standard, one-way fare for Long Beach to Avalon trips is $42 for ages 12-54. Seniors who are 55 or older pay $37.75, while the children’s fare is $32.50. Commodore Lounge fares are $20 higher in each category. There are up to eight departures daily from Long Beach to Avalon, so it’s easy to make it a day trip.
Hotel Options
We stayed at the Hotel Atwater, which has lovely, modern rooms and a sleek, airy lobby. It was built by Wrigley and opened in 1920. A total overhaul of the property took place in 2019. Our room wasn’t large, but we had a nice queen bed and a small fridge. All guests get two small bottles of sparkling wine on arrival day. The hotel also provides a $20 per room/per night food and beverage credit that can be used at Bistro at the Atwater, Avalon Grille, or Descanso Beach Club. In addition, guests get 15% off Catalina Island Company activities & tours and complimentary beach towels.
There was no coffee maker, but they had good, free coffee in the lobby from 5:30 to 7 a.m. The hotel is maybe a 10-minute walk from the ferry and a very short block from the ocean. The website recently listed a classic queen room in the middle of the week in August for $374, $324.65 if booked directly. Banning House Lodge and Villas offers rooms in Two Harbors.
Dining Options
Bluewater Grill is a pretty restaurant with a nice patio overlooking the harbour. The cod with miso is quite good. We also enjoyed a very nice mai tai and a solid margarita with serrano chilies. Avalon Grille makes a powerful old-fashioned that, for some reason, includes a slice of bacon. They say their Wrigley Martini with gin and green olives packs a punch, as well. The Naughty Fox makes a very nice blackened shrimp with rice with toasted coconut and mango, and has a nice patio. M Restaurant serves a huge salad with wild arugula, walnuts, goat cheese, and dried cranberry. Try the blackened Arctic Char or the spicy Penne Arrabiata with shrimp. Bistro at the Atwater makes a very good breakfast burrito and good avocado toast.
Shopping
Crescent Street, which runs along the water, is lined with restaurants, t-shirt and surf shops, and a few galleries. I thought Island Threadz had the best t-shirt selection.
Boating
You can rent kayaks in a number of places in Avalon. We got ours at the Descanso Beach Club, a short walk from town, and enjoyed a quiet paddle. Visit Catalina Island operates tons of boat tours, including a glass bottom boat, a submarine voyage and trips to Two Harbors.
Land Tours and Zip Lines
Visit Catalina Island runs several tours on land, including a bison expedition and the Journey to the Sky, which is the one we briefly experienced. They also offer a Zip Line Eco Tour.
Catalina Casino
There’s no gambling here, but the casino is home to the gorgeous Avalon Theatre, one of the first theatres built specifically for talking movies. Look for solid, black walnut panels and Art Deco furnishings in a building that dates to 1929. Films are shown on Friday and Saturday nights. The upstairs ballroom was a famous gathering spot for movie stars and other celebs back in the day. Tours of the building are available.
Other Sights and Things To Do
Visitors aren’t allowed to bring a car to the island, and you can’t rent one, so the next best (better, actually) thing is to rent a golf cart. We toured Avalon for a couple of hours, enjoying tremendous vistas from the hills and admiring small, pretty homes. Expect to pay around $60 for an hour, which allows you to see the major sights in town.
The Wrigley Memorial and Botanical Garden is a pretty spot in a canyon that features plants endemic to the island. The memorial is built of local stone with a fountain and features sparkling blue Catalina tiles.
The Catalina Museum For Art and History is a nice spot for learning about the island’s colourful history.
The Catalina Island Golf Course is built in a canyon and has beautiful views. It’s a nine-hole, par-32 course. It costs $40 for nine holes and $60 for 18 if you feel like playing twice. Carts and clubs are available for rent.
Unofficial Song of Catalina Island
The bouncy tune “26 Miles (Santa Catalina)” was made famous by a group called The Four Preps in the late 1950s. I strongly suggest listening to it before you go and again on the ferry.
Local Recommendation
The Avalon Graveyard is a peaceful spot on the edge of town. Our visit to Catalina was around Veterans Day, and there were dozens of tiny U.S. flags on display amid the headstones and greenery. “I used to be in charge of the public works department, and I was responsible for the graveyard,” Lopez told me. “I buried a lot of people in that cemetery. My Mom and Dad are buried there. It’s a hidden spot many people don’t know about.”
