Sometimes we have been very lucky in our travels. Many times we end up in a place just in time for a festival or celebration that we had no idea was even going on. We don’t normally plan our travels around these events. They just seem to work out that way.
We had heard of the famous cremation ceremonies of Bali in the past and seen them on T.V. but we never thought that we would actually witness one. The cremation ceremony is a sacred right of passage in Bali. It is a time for celebration and a time for the deceased’s body to be burned and set free from its worldly ties. It is the most important ceremony and celebrated stage in a persons life in Bali and no expense is spared.
Sometimes it can take years after a persons death for a cremation to take place. Poorer families save money over time to be able to pay for the ceremony and they have mass cremations together. The bodies are temporarily buried until the day arrives.
Well, it just so happens that we were in Ubud, Bali when a very prominent priest passed away and could afford to have his own elaborate cremation ceremony.
We didn’t even know that a cremation was taking place that day. However when we were out earlier, everyone was asking us if we were going to see the cremation ceremony. Shop owners, waitresses even the clerk at the Internet café told us that we must see the cremation. We didn’t know if we should but after being reminded by everyone to ho, how could we not?
We arrived to a mass of people dressed in traditional ceremonial clothing. Bands were playing and people carried ornate offerings on their heads and others walked through the crowd selling sarongs and chess sets.
Soon the procession appeared at the end of the street and the ceremony began. It was led by a massive white sacred cow carried by dozens of sarong clad men. The crowd fell into place and the procession grew. Thousands of people filled the street.
The Balinese music played and the tin drums could be heard from everywhere. The atmosphere was festive and exciting. People yelled and cheered and the energy was intoxicating.
The high tower containing the body followed. A priest stood beside the shrine along with another man who could have been the deceased eldest son or relative. It too was resting on giant bamboo poles being carried by dozens of men. At this point we joined the procession following it all the way to the temple where the actual ceremony would take place.
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The Cremation Ceremony in Bali is a time to celebrate life
Every so often the men carrying the tower would stop and turn in circles. From what I understand, they were trying to confuse the spirit. They don’t want it finding its way home so the long route is not only just for show it is actually a part of the ceremony and their beliefs. It is to mix up the spirit, they don’t want him finding his way back to the family to haunt them. It must move on. a
It was a very hot day. The sun beat down and the concrete burned through the soles of our flip flops. We were sweating in the intense sun, but we could not miss this once in a lifetime experience.
The band found a spot to sit where it continued to play as the body was prepared.
Wreaths were displayed in front of the alter and the body was transferred from the tower to be burned inside the statue of the white cow. I could not see exactly what was happening, but they took great care wrapping the body and filling the shrine with offerings.
After and hour of anticipation, quite suddenly and silently the fire was lit. I had my back turned and it wasn’t until the cow was engulfed in flames did I realize that the cremation was taking place.
The intense heat caused even the most curious to step back.
The cow took a long time to burn and the head never did. Eventually the body fell underneath the cow and that is when they really fueled the fire to burn the bones. The intense eat focused on the body to finish the cremation.
It was strange. You could see the skeleton burning and morbid tourists, myself included, rushed to the front to take a closer view.
The band played on and people cheered as the cremation ceremony came slowly to an end.
It was yet another surreal experience in our Asian Adventure.
However it really was a spectacular sight and awesome to see how death can be about celebration as well as grieving. A cremation ceremony in Bali shows that life is worth celebrating. We all have to die one day, we should embrace the afterworld and pay tribute to a life lived.
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It’s interesting to learn how other cultures deal with the passing of life and what happens after death. I definitely prefer the pomp and celebration of a culture like this one, or the idea behind a “wake’, much more than the mournful, depressing bleakness of traditional funerals here. I’d rather have my life celebrated than my death mourned. Great photos too!
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A cool way to go out although seems like a lot of effort for a funeral. Maybe that’s just me though, I’m not too concerned what happens to my body after I’m gone.
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Thanks for the great description and pics of a unique cultural event.
What a unique experience! Your photos are amazing and add an important visual to the story of the cremation ceremony in Ubud.
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Again, what timing!!!!!! I’m doing something seriously wrong, or the countries I’m visiting and living in just don’t have anything remotely this ornate or interesting or just plain mind blowing.
Glad to see this from you guys!!!!!
great pics and glad you liked the experience, but such cremations are actually very common in Bali.
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my girlfriend, Gerlyn and myself were celebrating my BD in Aug and we also had the privilege to witness the ceremony. The cremation is common but Tempo Dulu has confused this ceremony with the ordinary one, the last one before this was 7 years ago! your pics were well taken indeed, we don’t have one that matches your quality, and which spot did you get that ariel view?
That was my 3rd visit to Bali but Gerlyn’s 1st, it was both our 1st time to stay in Ubud and Ubud is truly BALI! As a matter of fact, as soon as we return to Singapore, where myself came from, we booked our next trip to Ubud this coming X’mas, this time to celebrate Gerlyn’s BD.
Hi Andrew. The arial view was from a stage that we climbed up on. It is quite amazing. Yes, the real mass cremation ceremonies only happen every few years, so we are all very lucky to have been there at the right time to witness it. We love Ubud too, have a great Christmas there and get yourself a massage. It is heaven. Climbing Gunung Batur is worth it as well. Let us know how your trip goes. Cheers Dave and Deb
VERY interesting article.. Thanks for posting this. It Is always nice to get an insight on other cultures viewpoints on cremation and cremation ceremonies.
Tim Bryan
BryanWoodUrns
wood urn
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Wow, the colors of the ceremony are absolutely incredible. I agree, seems like a lot of work, but many other cultures find great joy in perperations, unlike us lazy westerners.
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You have great shots here. It is really a big cremation event. I just wonder how many people were carrying the cow like urn?