Travel Movie Memories

I have read a lot of posts about movies that inspire travel.  I love movies and yes there is an endless list of movies that promote a country, inspire an adventure in us all and offer us a glimpse into life in another country.

While I love movies like that, I often think about movies that I have seen on the road in our travels. Many times in a conversation, someone will mention a movie and it will trigger a memory.  Just the other day we were talking about Rambo at work and I said “hey, I saw that in Botswana” It happens all of the time and I will remember where I saw it and then relive that time in a country in my brain. It brings a smile to my face.

We have seen a lot of movies during our travels.  Most of the time, it is exactly the same as being in Canada, but there are a few memories of movies that stand out and will be remembered for the rest of our lives.

Top 5 Travel Movie Memories

1- Starship Troopers.  We saw this movie on a loop on a bus from Chang Mai to Bangkok.  It played over and over dubbed in Thai.  We were both extremely hung over from running into Canadians that owned a bar the night before.  They kept our glass filled with Thai Wiskey all night long.  We managed to wake up in time for our 7:00 am departure, but it was not a happy ride.  The air-conditioning wasn’t working, the windows wouldn’t go down, I was dizzy and dehydrated and all I had to distract me for the next 12 hours was Denise Richards speaking in Thai.

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2 – Return of the King.  We were in Laos when the third installment of Lord of the Rings came out.  We were really looking forward to seeing it and a restaurant was playing a bootleg copy that evening. Of course we went to check it out.  The sound was terrible and it was cut to shreds.

There are bootleg copies of movies all over South East Asia, so this was nothing new. But the reason I remember this so well is that I tried to adjust the sound because they had the reverb on high and the volume on low. Nobody was around to ask to fix it, so I decided to give it a try.  Boy, was I told off for touching the knob.  I don’t know where she came from, but a lady came running out of the back with rage in her eyes and scolded me to the point where we decided that we had better leave.   I never have seen the entire Return of the King.

3 – Kill Bill. We love seeing movies in Bangkok.  The theatres are modern and state of the art. What we love the most though  is the montage of the King at the beginning of each movie. The King is revered in Thailand and before each movie, everyone stands to pay their respects as a slide show plays depicting his life. This was in 2004 that we were there, but I am sure that their respect and love has not subsided and I am sure that this slide show must still play.

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4 – Mona Lisa Smile - Kutching Sarawak, Borneo.  Borneo is not exactly a place that you would think to go and see a movie. It is a place for adventure, wildlife and trekking.  But we found ourselves relaxing in Kutching for a night and saw that a Julia Roberts movie was playing at the local theatre.

The movie was terrible, but what we remember is a cockroach climbing up Dave’s leg.  We watched the rest of the show cross legged. And we remember the delicious caramel corn.  No buttered popcorn, only caramel on the menu.

5 – Tracks of a Killer – Nobody has heard of this movie and even less have seen it.  But it was one of the first movies that Dave ever worked on.  It starred Lance Henrickson of Aliens Fame and Kelly LeBrock AKA Steven Segal’s ex wife.  It went straight to video, but we just so happened to see it while we were sitting in a small bar downtown Paris.  We thought that was pretty cool, and then a man walked in wearing a Panavision Jacket.

For some reason we were feeling pretty bold so we asked him if he worked in the film business. It turns out he did and then we told him that Dave worked on the movie that was playing on the T.V.  We were all best of friends instantly and we ended up drinking closing the bar.  We actually stayed until way passed closing time and the owner bought all of our rounds of drinks as we drank wine and beer until the wee hours of the morning.

The next day at Les Invalides was not a pleasant experience.

Honorable Mention

The Italian Job. It was 2004, we were traveling around South East Asia for several months and it never failed, every time we stepped onto a bus, The Italian Job was playing. We got to the point where we hated that movie.  We also got to the point where we knew every line and moment.

For some reason now though, I now really like The Italian Job.  I was even laughing the other day when we were talking about the timing of Toronto’s traffic lights and how because our city is amalgamated with other city’s, all of our traffic lights are on separate systems.  Dave said, “hey if they had the guy from the Italian Job that was the Real Napster inventor, he could fix all of our problems.”

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Memories of Myanmar

Visiting Burma was one of our most fulfilling travel experiences.  It was a difficult travel taking local transport.  The 30 hours in transit from Kyaikto to Inle Lake was definitely a difficult journey. We transferred from bus, to van, to the back of a truck to a taxi.  It was hot, it was crowded, it was long.  But the people we so friendly.  Not many could speak English, but it didn’t stop them from practicing with us every chance that they got.

We tried hard not to give money to the government by traveling independently. But we all know that somehow, someway the did get a piece of the pie. However, we talked to many people about whether or not we should be traveling there.  Aung San Suu Kyi had told tourists not to come to her country. But when we talked to people on the street, they welcomed us.  They were happy that we were not staying in the big resorts run by the government and they were happy that we hired local guides, took local transit and stayed in small guest houses.  As one man said, Sanctions only help the Generals.

We felt secure in our choice to visit Myanmar. We found a great guide in Mandalay “Julius Caesar.” We stepped off our bus very early in the morning, he approached us and asked us if we needed a guide and we said sure.  He took us around to all of the back entrances and out of the way places. He was a former student who was arrested during the uprising and talked to us about the country and its history.

Now with the trial of Aung San Suu Kyi going on, our hearts are saddened once again. Are thoughts are with the people of Burma who were so welcoming and giving towards us during our time there.   The situation in Myanmar breaks our hearts, but I think that if more people visit, maybe one day the doors will open up.  How can a country be isolated from the world and stand a chance?

Here are some of our greatest memories from Myanmar/Burma.

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Vang Vieng, Beauty and Relaxing in Laos

View Vang Vieng, Laos

In a landlocked country in central South East Asia, there is a tiny piece of paradise on a stop between two popular destinations.Vang Vieng Laos is a little town on route 13 between the major cities of Vientiane and Luang Prabang.
A place where you can lose yourself relaxing by the river, riding a bike through incredible scenery, exploring remote caves or simply lazing in old opium dens watching the latest bootleg Hollywood release.
Forget about the commercialized hill tribe treks in Northern Thailand, here, you are staying among the villagers, and a short walk will take you into the rugged countryside.  Incredible Karsts formations jut out from the land containing hidden caves, waterfalls and lagoons surrounding this tiny village along the Nam Song River.
We went to Vang Vieng intending to stay a day or two to break up the trip to World Heritage Sight, Luang Prabang.  Our plans changed however, and we found ourselves extending our stay for several more days.

Paddling the Nam Song River, Laos

Discovering a charming guesthouse overlooking the water, we did what everyone does once they have settled in; we rented inner tubes and went for a ride on the river.  For $2, a pick up truck up will drive you and your tube up river to a drop in point.  Then it is into the water for a 3hr ride surrounded by towering cliffs, deep blue skies, and lush green vegetation.  It is a place of incredible beauty.  We lazily ride the slow current with nothing to do but to watch life unfold around us.
Clever entrepreneurs have set up floating bars to sell Beer Lao to the passing tubers.  You can pull up to the side of the raft and have a nice cold drink to break up the trip.  If you are having trouble steering towards your destination, never fear, they have long poles ready to pull you in.  There are rope swings; high cliffs and bamboo platforms just waiting for an adventurous type take a jump.  Drunken travellers awkwardly splash into the water as local children show up everyone by flipping and somersaulting with impressive skill.
Tanned, shirtless men wade in the water searching for their prey.  Armed with bamboo poles and wearing snorkeling masks, they herd fish toward their nets.  They locate a school of fish; smack their poles on the surface of the water leading the disoriented fish to their traps.  It is hard, cold work, but they smile as we pass.
Sarong clad women wash their clothes on the shore, people hunt for kelp to fill their colourful baskets and herds of water buffalo graze on the bank.
I see a lady washing a mound of lettuce down river from the buffalo and I make a mental note not to order a salad at dinner.
Our long lazy ride is anything but boring.
By twilight, we reach the end of our journey, sun burnt, and hungry.  We change for dinner and head out to the many eateries to enjoy a movie while we dine on pizza and beer Lao.

Laos: Old Opium Den, now used for Food and movies

Great food is easy to find in Vang Vieng.  We have our choice of Indian curries, Italian pasta, spicy Thai, Western staples and of course traditional Lao dishes.  Cafés are lines along the two main dirt roads.
The market it bustling with activity, but we decide to pass on dinner here.
We are not sure how safe the food is as we notice beef Kebabs baked from the sun displayed on milk crates, dried bananas laying on a tarp covered in flies, and chickens roaming freely through the alleys.  My husband Dave wonders how do they know who owns which chicken.
We venture down to a bar by the river drawn by music turned up to “11”.  It sounds like quite the party is happening, but when we arrive; the place is empty except for the staff.  We decide to stay anyway and have a drink on the dock enjoying the cool breeze as we lay on cushions placed on a woven mat.
The days pass casually and we become motivated to try some kayaking.  Hiring a guide at one of the many shops, we set out for a tour of the river and caves in the area.  The scenery is breathtaking as the enormous cliffs line our route.  It is an easy paddle as we guide our way through the gentle rapids.  We stop at Sleeping Cave, a large cavern used in wartime for locals to hide in.  It is dark, and we use old headlamps with exposed wires leading from their giant battery packs.  Careful not to get a shock, we use its strong beam to explore its main chamber and several passages.  After sliding in the mud, wading in the chilly water and stumbling in the dark, we thankfully squeeze our way through the tiny opening leading to the fresh air and open space.

Bridge in Vang Vieng, Laos

Back at our boats a small food stall is playing Latin music and I wonder, am I in Asia or Central America as I salsa to the beat.
Back on the river, it is peaceful and the seclusion from other people is a nice change from the busier tubing route.
Vang Vieng is dotted with many caves and they can take a couple of days to explore.  We rent bicycles and head out with guidebook in hand to search for a few.  Following the signs, we ride through a field until we come upon a makeshift ticket window.  Local children man the booth and for a small fee, they guide us through the cave.  A young girl grabs an ancient headlamp and signals us to follow.  We walk deep into the forest and approach a group of boys on the path.  Having read about scams in my guidebook, I worry that she has duped us and has really taken us into the woods to be mugged.  I grip my daypack as we continue to walk, but my paranoia is unfounded and soon we enter an unimpressive cave part way up a cliff.
Thankful to be on our way, we continue to ride along a gravel road, exploring some dirt trails, and paths through the woods until we come across an emerald green lagoon.  This crystal clear pond, surrounded by forests and cliffs is a refreshing stop to a hot day.  We eat a hearty and delicious noodle soup at a small food stand, enjoy a few swings on a rope into the cool water and talk with a young monk from Vientiane visiting a near by wat.  I am surprised when he takes down his robes and jumps in for a swim.  Are monks allowed to do that?

Friendly Monk in Vang Vieng Laos

Our time abruptly ends when we see a snake over a metre long swimming in the water.  Everyone quickly scurries out of the lagoon and nobody dares to go back in.  With the day pressing on, we say goodbye and it is back on our bikes to return to the village refreshed and armed with a new tale of our near death encounter!
Local children join us for a while, running along side, holding on to our seats.  I ride slowly so that they can keep up and they never seem to tire.  At a crossroads, we go our separate way and wave good bye, uplifted by their laughter.
A unique vehicle passes us filled with passengers.  It is a tractor with an attached wagon, but its front tire reaches far in front.  It rides through the bumpy road with ease, and then when it comes to a river, it ploughs right through it keeping everyone dry and avoiding the need to build an expensive and sturdy bridge.  An ingenious invention showing how well the people have adapted to their surrounding land.
It is such a pleasure to visit Vang Vieng; the people are generous and genuinely friendly expecting nothing in return.  They will invite you to share a Beer Lao or offer you some kebabs cooked over an open flame.  They are proud to tell you about their land and their people and they do not seem to mind the travellers who have invaded their quiet town.
It is as if time stands still here.  Vang Vieng rubs off on its visitors and one can’t help but to slow down and take the time to enjoy the simple things in life.  Many people stop in to spend a day or two, but like us, they tend to stay for a few more.

Busses run daily between Luang Prabang and Vientiane stopping in Vang Vieng
You can fly to Laos on Thai Airways from Bangkok to Vientiane
30-day visa’s can be issued in Bangkok for around $30.  15-day tourist visas can be bought at the airport on arrival for $30.  Visa’s can be purchased at the Lao embassy in Toronto for……
There are no ATM’s in Laos, Thai Baht and US dollars are the currency of choice.  Banks and Money changers will exchange cash and US dollar travellers cheques for a small fee
Flights from Toronto to Bangkok daily on Air Canada

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Myanmar’s Golden Rock. A Hidden Treasure

A fellow traveler in Borneo told me that he had left a little piece of his heart in Myanmar, I on the other hand left a little piece of my wallet.

We arrived at Yangon Airport and took a $4 cab ride to downtown. After settling into our guest house the Beautyland II, we took a walk to the sacred Sula Paya, a 2000 year old temple of worship and the place to change money on the black market

It didn’t take long for a man to approach us with a great exchange rate.  We handed him our $100 US  dollar bill and he handed us back 81,000 Kyats.  We recounted our money and verified that all was well and were on our way.  We were feeling very proud of ourselves accomplishing our first transaction on the black market with such ease and by negotiating a great rate.

Sule Pagoda, Yangon Myanmar

Soon another man approached us with an even better exchange rate and it was here that we let our guard down.
We agreed on 83,000 kyats to $100 USD.  The first 40,000 K was counted out and all was well.  Dave, my husband recounted the stack and then handed it to me.  Suddenly our little con man started acting paranoid and told me to hide the money in my bag because the police were everywhere.  I did as I was told and he proceeded to count out stacks of 10,000 at a faster pace, handing Dave each stack for him to verify.  Five stacks later and we were finished.  I put the money into my bag, the three  of us walked together talking about life in Yangon. I liked this fellow so much that I reached into my sack of cash and gave him a tip!  Upon returning to our hotel and recounting our money to stash some of it away, we noticed that we were 30,000 K short of our 164,000 k.

Vendors trying to sell us books

The next morning, after thoroughly reprimanding ourselves, we went to the travel agent behind the train station to book our bus to the Golden Rock.
We took our taxi to the Highway bus station 14 km out of the city, hopped on to our decrepit coach where we proceeded to sit in the overwhelming heat for another hour.  The bus station was full of vendors selling food and drinks and stacks of books and magazines.  They frantically looked through their stacks to find and English paper to offer us, but nothing was to be found except for some magazines with a few English word in their titles.  This didn’t stop them from tying to sell us them however.

Transportation up the mountain

The five hour bus ride, an hour of waiting in the back of an overly crowded pick up truck where my legs fell asleep from the lack of circulation, and then the grueling climb with our packs to the top of the mountain, was definitely worth the effort.

Myanmar’s fabled Golden Rock. A sacred monument balancing on the side of mount Kyaiktiyo. The giant boulder perched on the side of a mountain, threatens to plunge into the Valley below.  A pagoda is built on its top and it is covered in solid gold leaves that people leave as an offering to the Gods.

Golden Rock, Myanmar

Legend has it that the rock is balancing on the hair of Buddha; given to a hermit by Buddha himself, who in turn found a boulder which resembled his own head. He built a small Stupa on its top and pilgrims have made their way to see it ever since.
It is not clear as to how this spectacle has balanced on this cliff with almost half of its base hanging over.  It has survived for centuries, weathering  earthquakes and erosion.

We reached the top at 7:00pm only to find out that the hotel where we wanted to stay was $25 not the $10 that we were expecting.  We made the decision to hike the three hours down in the dark to stay in Kin Mon the village at the base of the mountain.  Resolving ourselves to the walk ahead, we rummaged through our packs to find our flashlights.  The next thing we knew a man from the entrance office came to tell us that they would waive the entrance fee and allow us to see the rock for free.  They felt that this was an important sight and it

Night time at Balancing Rock, Kyaiktiyo

shouldn’t be missed.  It was the nicest thing that had happened to us on our trip and we thanked them profusely bowing, shaking hands and being in complete shock at their generosity.

It was an exhilarating experience.  We were the only westerners on sight among hundreds of worshipping families and monks.  People approached us to practice their English, to have their pictures taken with us and to just have a look at these two people who have come to see their national treasure. A crowd of people followed us a we walked around the grounds.

We walked underneath its base to further examine this phenomenon, We felt assured by the fact that it has been standing for centuries and has yet to topple over, but we couldn’t explain how it managed to do so.  Only  men were allowed to approach the rock and to feel it’s magic.  It is said to bring prosperity in the year ahead.

Dave at Balancing Rock, Myanmar

Dave walked through the gate and felt its pure gold leaf finish while I watched from a distance. We are both looking forward to the riches that he will be receiving this year!

The people that we met travelling were thrilled to have us visit their country, they knew several facts about our country  of Canada and genuinely appreciated our conversations.  It is a country left off of many people’s travel itinaries in South East Asia, but they are missing out on one of the friendliest and moving experiences you will have.
Our Governments have put sanctions on Myanmar and has told our citizens to  boycott the country. We asked many people in private conversations if they wanted the world to follow this advice and heir answers were a resounding No.  They only ask that we do not visit on package tours which fatten the pocket of the repressive government officials.

Children love to have their photo taken

For many, the only way they have to  make money is through tourism as guides, taxi drivers, horse cart tours and bicycle rentals among many other businesses.  When former students who were previously imprisoned are now working as private guides to tourists, it shows me that tourism is something that is welcomed.  It gives them an income that they would otherwise not have, a voice to the outside world and a chance to show off a country that even though it has a government whom they hate, they are still proud of it’s people and it’s beauty.

Shwedagon Pagoda

If you are a careful traveler, you can minimize the amount of money that goes into the wrong hands.  By taking local transport,  staying in family run guesthouses not the luxurious hotels built for package tours, using local guides, and eating in small establishments and buying from the market, you can give hope to a people who are in desperate need of help.  You can’t avoid everything, but I believe that the more people that go to a country, the more it will eventually open up and give the people a better way of life.

To those who have left Myanmar off of their Asian adventure, put it back on.  To those who have taken our governments advice, ignore it, and to others who have never really thought about Myanmar before, give it a look. It’s breathtaking scenery, unspoiled countryside, friendly people, and thriving tradidtion, make it a must stop for anyone looking for something different.

A Monk with his sons. Last day of his 2 weeks of service.

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Slow Boat to Thailand

Long Tail boats at Ko Lipe

When travelling most people choose to hop a flight to their next destination.  This allows them to see more sights in a shorter amount of time and to squeeze more destinations into their itinerary. Sometimes, after too long on the popular tourist route, I prefer to slow down and to take my time.  To interact with the local people, to  see out of the way places and unspoiled countryside.

Taking the slow boat from Luang Prabang Laos to Chaing Kong Thailand is the perfect way to experience the Mekong river, to see the villagers that live along the river and to view the rolling landscape of Laos. We spent three days in the busy town of Luang Prabang.  Being a world heritage sight, it is a stop on many package tours causing inflated prices for accommodation, handcrafts and dining.  We searched for hours for a guesthouse that was reasonable and clean.  Many were fully booked, more were out of our price range and others were just not in good condition.

After several hours, we were finally in our room recovering from searching the town for a decent room and from our long bus ride through the scenic mountains where we passed hill tribes and villages and saw gorgeous mountain vista’s  which unfortunately are becoming the victims of deforestation.

We explored Luang Prabang’s many temples, rented bicycles to explore the city, shopped at it’s impressive but over priced night market and we walked up to Wat Chom Phet to see an fiery sunset between the valley of two dark mountains overlooking the Mekong River.

It is a pretty town with charming streets and outdoor cafes, but with all of the well dressed  tourists drinking lattes and eating pasta, I needed to see the country from a different perspective. We boarded our boat at 6:00 a, for Thailand.  The sun had not burned off the early morning mist yet and we left Luang Prabang in a cool fog.

It was a basic boat with only planks of painted green plywood serving as benches.  Luckily we had or travel pillows to cushion our seat and enjoyed a pleasant ride. We met our travelling companions for the next 2 days, a couple from Australia and two men from Holland, and two women from New york.  The rest of the people on board were locals returning to their villages. They kept their distance from us sitting on the floor at the bough of the boat, but they were friendly and smiled when our eyes met.

At first we enjoyed animated conversations discussing where we had been and where we were going, but eventually we all relaxed in to the peaceful ride. We passed a man walking his elephant on the river bank, herds of water buffalo’s drinking it’s cool water, women doing their laundry and boats of fisherman seeking their catch.

The busy river was teeming with life. We would see monks walking in their deep burgandy robes and naked children waved as we drove by.  Every once in a while, we would pull up to a village to let someone off and many people dressed in colourful clothing would be there to greet them. We would wave goodbye and be on our way.

We sailed for 8 hours that first day and then pulled up to the small village of Pakbeng where we stayed the night in basic, but clean accommodation.  Grateful to stretch our legs, we dined with our new friends and retired early.

The next day was a little harder.  We were put onto a smaller boats with even tinier seat that had two of their short legs cut off to balance on the side bar. It was this boat that we saw yesterday and said, “wouldn’t it be awful if we had to travel in that!”  We spent our time squatting in our seats or laying on the floor trying to relax feeling sorry for ourselves. It was going to be a long ride.

Soon a deck of cards surfaced and we were all playing a rousing game of Barbi Uno.  It brought life back into us all, and we were laughing and joking all over again. It was a mad dash to the border to make it by six o’clock.

Tuk Tuk fares had to be negotiated, we had to find our way off of the boat and go in the right direction yet try as we might, we missed the border by five minutes. We were all sure that it was a conspiracy to keep us in the country one more night. This second day of travel just had too many stops and the driver was taking his sweet time.

There was nothing that could be done though and we were stuck in a dead end border town with little to do but have our last Beer Lao while watching a melodramatic soap opera at the local eatery. We were out of Kip (the countries currency) and nobody would take the  U.S. dollar even though it is used as a second currency throughout the rest of the land.  We had to ask the nice Australian couple whom we had only met yesterday, to borrow money. We promised to pay them back as soon as we reached Thailand and everything worked out just time.  They were very generous and we actually ended up travelling with them for the next week.

First thing in the morning we were back in Thailand taking a Songthaow to the bus station and eating banana pancakes for breakfast. Our time on the slow boat had come to an end, but we had made new friends and had a memorable experience on this vanishing form of travel. Now back to civilization and a need to hurry to our next destination.  Time is ticking; and suddenly slowing down to feel the culture and rhythm of the land is unthinkable. We need to catch the next bus and move on to the next stop as soon as possible. Sights are waiting to be seen and places need to be ticked off the list.  The more stamps on the passport the better! How quickly we fall back into old habits.

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Mount Kinabalu, 2 Tough Days in Borneo

My lungs are burning as I gasp for breath in the thin mountain air.  I have been climbing for two hours in the darkness and I ask myself repeatedly, why am I doing this? My husband Dave has talked me into conquering Mount Kinabalu, but I am having my doubts.  Am I actually capable of making it to the summit?

This 4095 metre mammoth is a 2-hour bus ride from Kota Kinabalu, the capital of Sabah, Malaysian Borneo’s northern province.
As we ride along the winding mountain road, its unmistakable figure comes into view.  The dark jagged rock is in sharp contrast to the lush surrounding jungle and it’s an intimidating sight rising out of the deep valley.  My heart races just a bit faster and a burning question creeps into my mind.  “Am really going to climb that tomorrow?”

Left alone on the side of the road, we haul our packs onto our backs and walk anxiously towards the parks headquarters to book our trek.
It is an easy task to secure a spot on tomorrows climb.  The parks staff takes care of everything.  Just tell them that you want to climb the mountain, and they supply the guide, sell you your permits and book your rooms.
After signing our waivers, we settle into our cozy dorm to organize our packs for the two days ahead.  Managing to piece together hats, gloves and jackets, by accepting handouts and frantically shopping in Kuala Lumpur, we feel ready to face the near freezing temperatures of Kinabalu’s summit.
The first day of our climb starts at 7:30 a.m., where we meet our guide and the other members of our group.  A mini van takes us to Timpohon Gate at the base of the mountain where our journey begins.

Our climb will be lasting for two days and within the first 5 minutes; I am already exhausted.  My small daypack weighs heavy on my back as porters whiz by carrying giant barrels and cumbersome loads to supply the rest house, Laban Rata at 3500 metres.  It makes me appreciate the high cost of bottled water.
The walk up the steep grade and high steps is a struggle, but the views make it all worthwile.  Rolling mountains of dense jungle under a vibrant blue sky dotted with fluffly white clouds.

Upon reaching Laban Rata, we gratefully relax until dinner at sunset.  The sky is ablaze with fiery reds and pinks illuminating the clouds pillowed below and I admire its beauty before turning early.
Bundled in layers, our group meets at 3:00 am to set off in the cold morning air.  It is a struggle and I find it difficult to catch my breath, but a bottleneck on the first set of wooden steps forces us to keep a slow pace climbing in single file.  Soon, I find my rhythm and as if in a trance, I steadily climb for 2 1/ 2 hours.

The sheer granite face becomes near vertical as we gain altitude.  I pull myself up with great effort using ropes tethered to the rock, thankful for the darkness concealing the long drop into oblivion.
It is cold and dark and I am exhausted.  It feels as though we will never reach the summit and every step is excruciating.  My legs ache and my heart races.  I look down and see a long line of lights winding below and I am thankful that at least I am farther along than they are..
Breathlessly, we stumble up the last obstacle of precarious jagged rocks and arrive at the top in darkness wondering “is this it?’”
After verifying that yes we are at the summit, we jostle for a position on the small peak, careful not to take a wrong step and fall into the deep canyon.  We perch ourselves on the edge of a rock facing east, and I am overcome with emotion until I realize that I have to wait for another hour until sunrise.  Huddling together, we wrap anything that we can find around our legs and shoulders to protect us from the frigid air but, nothing helps and we shiver in the cold.

Finally, the sun breaks out from below the horizon, lighting up the sky and warming our chilled bones revealing a magnificent view.  Surrounded by vast mountains I look into the plunging valley, and I am amazed that I made it.
We snap the obligatory photo of us standing at the summit and then there us nothing left to do but to walk back down.

I thought that the walk up was difficult, but the walk down is twice the pain.  I now understand why they say that going down is the hardest part.  My legs cramp tighter with each step, and the distance seems to be endless.  I no longer care about the stunning vistas and panoramic views.  All I want is to get off of this mountain and to have this ordeal behind me.
With the final cruelty of steep steps leading up Timpohan Gate, we finally come to the end.  The sight of our mini van waiting for us brings an overwhelming sense of relief to know that I will soon be sitting down and I plunge into the seat feeling proud of my accomplishment.
It is amazing how quickly the mind forgets pain.  The next day on the bus back to Kota Kinabalu, we are already planning our next climb.  Kilimanjaro, here we come!

And yes, we did Kilimanjaro 3 years later.  It seemed less painful than Kinibalu.  I really think that Borneo’s climb, which was shorter and took less time, was still a far more difficult mountain to conquer.

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Shocking Asia, Malaysia’s Thaipusam

As my husband and I share a beer with a couple from England in the superbly preserved Malaysian city of Penang, I learn that we happen to have stumbled into the country at the most exciting time of the year.

It is the end of January and in a weeks time Thaipusam, a sacred Hindu Festival, will be in full swing all over the land!

We make plans to meet in Kuala Lumpur where the largest congregation of people will converge for a three-day festival at the Batu Caves.

According to the papers, 1.5 million people will be attending the pilgrimage this year and we are in the heart of the action.

Staying at a guesthouse in Chinatown, we are only two blocks from the start of the procession where worshippers pay tribute to the Lord Muluga.

At midnight, devotees will begin the 13km walk to the base of the Caves following his Golden Chariot.  It is here that they will be put into a trance and begin their journey up the 272 steps to the entrance of this vast chamber.

People take part in this festival for different reasons.  Some to give thanks for a miracle which has happened in their lives, others to ask for a wish to be granted or to rid themselves of their sins by carrying burdens and piercing their bodies.  However, this is not your ordinary everyday piercing.  These devoted people have a Priest drive spikes through their cheeks and tongues or insert hooks into their backs and chests on which they hang various fruit or milk pots to add to the discomfort.  Some people carry Kevadi’s; giant cumbersome alters made of steal decorated with vibrant ribbons and peacock feathers, while others simply carry a pot full of coconut milk upon their heads to take to the cave as an offering.  A feat in itself due to the heat and number of people they have to push through.

We arrive at the Batu Caves 24 hours after the procession begins in the middle of the night by local bus. Drums are beating and people are chanting “Vel Vel” as the overwhelming crowd pushes forward towards the cave high in a cliff overhead.  It feels like a dream as you sway in the intense heat among the squeeze of people.  I work my way out of the procession to the safety of a drainage pipe over looking the masses for as far as the eye can see watching in awe as people pass.  Their wide eyes seeing through me as I snap my camera.

Sometimes devotees will break into a wild dance or let out a primal scream. Others are more playful and dance to the music putting beetle nut on the foreheads of onlookers.

They seem to be connected to something ancient and powerful feeling no pain and experiencing little fatigue due weeks of meditation, a strict diet and then finally a fast to help them prepare for this important event.

We are so enthralled with the festival, that we take the bus back to the caves the following morning.  Exhausted from the night before and working on only 2 hours of sleep, we haul ourselves out of bed to experience for a second time this once in a lifetime opportunity

The daylight hours take away a bit of the eeriness and we feel a little braver under the bright sky.  Hooks and spikes are bigger, kevadi’s are more ornate, and the worshippers are as committed as ever.

We have managed to join the procession this time walking up the steep flight of stairs with thousands of other people to enter the caves.  The sun is overwhelming and it is a relief to reach the cool darkness.

It is here that we are treated to an intimate view of people coming out of their trances, having their hooks and piercing removed and to watch some mischievous monkeys fight for bananas.

Stairs up to Caves

In a roped off area, each person reacts differently to the effects of their difficult task.  Some people faint once they have finished their pilgrimage and are surrounded by loved ones who massage feeling back into their arms and legs as they lie on the rocky floor.  Some bleed as their hooks are extracted from their backs and chests, but most of the time, not a drop of blood is spilled.  It is said that their deep trance and strict preparations, stop the flow.  Priests carefully take out the spikes and hooks, stuffing the wounds with ash and disinfecting them with lime.  It looks painful, but they seem oblivious.

The cave is quiet and calm, a contrast to the enormous energy and excitement of outside.  Their ordeal is over and burdens are lifted.  It seems almost anticlimactic to watch people talking casually, laughing with each other or walking calmly around the cave, taking in the sights.

The festival has come to an end and the only thing left is the long procession back to Kuala Lumpur where the Golden Chariot will return to it’s home at the Sri Mahamariamman Temple.

People will resume their lives as bankers or students, fathers and sisters feeling cleansed of their sins, released of their burdens and grateful for the opportunity to thank their Lord for a wish that he has granted.

We take the bus back to Kuala Lumpur and arrive in Chinatown for the final festivities of Chinese New Year.  Dragon and lion dances are taking place in the street, and once again, I find myself in a sea of people.  Only this time, the mood is completely different.  People are laughing and cheering as the talented acrobats perform overhead.  Children are boosted onto shoulders for a better view and lively drums are being played with enthusiasm.

It is an exciting time of year to be in Malaysia experiencing its rich culture to the fullest.

Thaipusam happens yearly in Malaysia at the end of January or beginning of February throughout the country.  Check Malaysia tourism at www.malaysiatoursism for more information.

Chinese New Year takes place near the end of January.

You can fly to Kuala Lumpur from Toronto via Malaysia Airlines for $1200 for a return flight.

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