World Wildlife Wednesday: Malaysian Borneo a Nature Lovers Dream

Hands down one of our favorite adventure destinations on the planet is Malasyian Borneo.  Sabah and Sarawak are exciting provinces filled with beautiful scenery and exciting wildlife.

We had never even considered venturing to Borneo during our Asian Adventure, but when a fellow traveler told us of a great deal on flights from Air Asia, well we just had to go.

I remember seeing Julia Roberts on the Rosie O’Donnell show years earlier talking about an Orangutan Sanctuary that she had filmed a documentary about and that had always been something that I had wanted to see.  So our first stop upon Landing in Kota Kinabalu was to take a bus to Sepilok.  One of two Orangutan Rehabilitation Centres that we had the privilege to visit.

$20 per person goes towards the sanctuary and gives you access to the park and of course viewing the Orangutans during their feeding.  These incredible primates don’t have to come to the feeding if they don’t want to.  They have been rehabilitated and released back in to the wild. The feedings are for newly reintroduced Orangutans to come back to a familiar place.  They need to re-learn how to live on their own, and this helps them to make the transition easier.

To See Borneo’s Wildlife in Action, check out our featured video to the right of the page

The Viewing is absolutely breathtaking.  As the crowd sits on the boardwalk and waits, Orangutans slowly come swinging into view. One at a time they make their way to the platform where workers feed them banana’s and fresh fruit and for an expectant mother and her baby, bottles of formula and vitamins. Astounding.

We went to another Centre in Sarawak called Semenggoh.  This one is not as popular on the tourist track, but we found it to be even more rewarding. There were only 5 of us watching the Orangutans eat and luckily 3 showed up that day for some fresh banana’s and milk.  It is far more rustic and the feeding area is much farther away from the viewing platform than Sepilok, but that is what makes this Centre so special. The Orangutans are hardly exposed to humans at all making their transition that much easier for them.

The Orangutan sanctuary’s were some of the most memorable experiences of our life.  To see the work being done there is a testimate to the human spirit. With the clear cutting of jungle happening at astounding rates in Borneo due to Palm Oil Plantations, the habitat of the Orangutan is running out.  There needs to be more reserves like this if they are to survive.

Early Morning

After moving on from Sepilok, we caught a boat to Uncle Tans Jungle Safari. This rustic lodge is smack dab in the middle of the Jungle. Your days are jammed packed with wildlife viewing.  A morning river cruise to see Proboscis Monkeys, Orangutans and Macaques.  Daytime takes you on a trek through the jungle where you hunt for more wildlife. Wild Pigs hang around the camp and you will also learn all about medicinal plants of the rainforest.

Our Guide Shows us a Bat found in a Leave

Nights are exciting as well.  Take an evening boat ride to look for crocodiles and after dinner take a walk with your guide to see scorpions, spiders and other creepy crawly’s that come out in the dark.

scorpion

Sarawak has its fill of Wildlife too.

A trip to Bako National Park is a treat to walk through the trails and see the highest concentration of Proboscis Monkeys on the planet.  Stop and listen and you will be sure to see the leap and play in the trees above.  The park is filled with monkeys and wild pigs and we saw our fair share of snakes as well.

Wild Pig

If you make it to Gunung Mulu a must see is the 2 million bats that come out of deer cave every evening.  You will be in awe as the bats circle above feeding on insects. Their chain growing larger and larger with each pass.

Borneo is truly a wildlife and bird watchers paradise. There are so many places to view wildlife. We didn’t even talk about the underwater paradise of Sipidan and unfortunately we didn’t make it to the turtle sanctuary.  But that just give us many reasons to go back soon!

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Great Things to do in Malaysian Borneo

Mount Kinabalu, Sabah Borneo

The Legendary Rainforests of Borneo bring to mind images of towering trees, abundant wildlife, raging rivers and memories of the days of the Headhunter, when tribes lived off of the land and had an intimate relationship with nature.

The Malaysian Borneo of today is a very different one of 50 years ago.  During the 70’s to 90’s the rainforest was cut down at an alarming rate becoming garden furniture and chopsticks.  Much of its jungle and habitat was wiped out. Sadly today, forests are still being clear cut in Borneo to make room for Oil Palm Plantations and poaching of endangered species such as the Orangutan and the clouded leopard is on the rise; but there is a glimmer of hope.

The Endangered Orangutan

Conservation and reforestation methods are being introduced and 16% of Sabah’s forested area is protected.  And there are heavy penalties for poaching.  So, now is the time to get out to Borneo and see this magical land before it is too late.  Plus if there is one thing that I have learned in my travels, if people can make some money off of tourists coming to see their wildlife and nature, well, they will just work that much harder to protect it.

The Number 1 top destination in Sabah for us was…

View from the Summit of Mount Kinabalu

1. Climbing Mount Kinabalu. South East Asia’s highest peak at 4095 meters in a magnificent climb over 2 days.  A two hour bus ride from Kota Kinabalu will take you to the parks gate where you can book the climb, your guide, accommodations before the climb and on the mountain. It is recommended that you secure your permits in town before you go, but being Dave and Deb, we of course bought them on sight with no planning. Not a problem though, we secured a climb the next day with dorm accommodations at Laban Rata at 3500 meters.

To see our climb click here

At the Summit of Kinabalu

We met our guide at 7:30 am and climbed tough trek for the next 5 hours. It may not be the highest mountain on the planet, but it is steep and tough.  The Summit Day starts at 4:00 am so it is an early night overlooking the clouds. Be prepared it is cold. The weather may be tropical below, but a touque, gloves and jacket are needed at the summit.  Where you will be treated to a magnificent View.  Only to have to turn around and start the hardest part of the day. Going down.  It is a workout for your thighs and calfs and once you are back in town, you will know exactly who climbed Mount Kinabalu Recently, because they will be limping their way along the sidewalks.

By far one of the most heartwarming moments of my life was visiting my number 2 destination in Sabah.

2. The Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre

Sepilok Orangutan Rehab Centre

Staying right beside the park, we stayed at the Sepilok Jungle Resort. Boardwalks twist through the grounds right next to the jungle. The next day it is a short walk to the gate where we were treated to a video explaining the centre and what it has accomplished. Very interesting indeed, but the piéce de resistance is definitely all about the Orangutans.  After walking along the jungle path with monkey playing in the trees, we come out to the feeding platform. Every day, the orangutans can choose to come back for a hearty meal of fruit and vitamin milk. They are orangutans that have either been injured, rescued or orphaned that have been nursed back to health and let back into the jungle.  To make their transition easier, they can come back any time they want for a feast.  Every day is different and we take a chance hoping that at least one will stop by.

It is a good day for us and 4 orangutans come home. A baby, 2 females and a male have graced us with their presense and they swing silently in to view.  They feed liesurely barely noticing us. Well, that is the adults, the baby swings around from side to side showing off its athletic grace and she knows we are all enthralled and loves every minute of it.

Semenggoh Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre, Sarawak

We loved it so much that when we went to Sarawak, we went to the Semenggoh Rehabilitation Centre. A far less visited rehab facility, but just as effective and more fulfilling I must say. It was just Dave, Myself and another couple watching the Orangutans mangé on their banana’s.  A moving experience.

Now it is time to see them in the wild.

Last Day at Uncle Tans, saying good-bye

3. Uncle Tans Jungle Safari was one of the coolest trips I have ever taken. Take a van and then a boat up the The Sungai Kinabatangan right into the heart of the jungle of Borneo, and stay in this rustic camp for a few days.  Your meals and wildlife safaris are included, but if you want some alcohol, bring it with you.  It won’t be needed though because the days are packed.  You can get up at 6:00 am for a morning safari on the boat to check out the life on the river. Morning is a great time to see the Proboscis Monkey.  Another trek will take you into the jungle by foot where you will learn about plant life and smaller amphibians like, the smallest frog in the world.  There is another afternoon safari where you will see a ton of wildlife and then it is off again after dinner for a night safari where you will look for crocodiles.

Check out all of the wildlife here

Smallest Frog in the World

We spotted everything during our time there. Lot’s of Crocodiles bathing on the shore in the day and their red eyes at night, Monitor Lizards, Civit Cats, Snakes, Proboscis Monkeys and macaques. We saw a orangutan in a tree in the wild, amazing!  It was an incredible Experience in a rustic and remote lodge. We also made friends there that will last a lifetime.

Pinnacles of Gunung Mulu

4. The Pinacles of Gunung Mulu National Park – Sarawak.  Ok, there was so much to do at this park that it was just unbelievable. Fly into it on a twin engine plane and you already feel that you are in the middle of nowhere. We immediately booked out trek to the Pinnalces, the star attraction of the park and settled in for the night.  The next day started with a boat ride, stopping at various caves along the way until we reached the entrance to our trail. We were let off on the shore and proceeded to hike 8 km in the jungle, with two river crossing in the process. We eventually found our way to camp 5 in the middle of the jungle once again where we stayed overnight resting for our climb to the pinnacles.

To see our climb click here

Dave at the Pinnacles Lookout

First thing in the morning, our guide took us up a rigorous climb. At first we were climbing in slippery and steep jungle, but 3/4 of the way up, we came to the first of seventeen aluminum ladders. This is where it gets fun.  Climbing on ropes and ladders over crevasse’s and drops. Making sure to keep 3 points of contact so that we don’t stumble down a cliff.  It can be a little hair raising, but the payoff is worth it.  Once we emerge around a rock,we are treated to a view of  dozens of jagged limestone layers reaching forty metres high. Magnificent.  After taking in the view, we had to climb down through the route we just came through. Tricky. Decending on ladders, planks and slippery rocks can be a challenge, but we made it through unscathed.

Bats at Deer Cave

Once we were back at park headquarters the next day, we made our way out to Deer Cave, the largest cave chamber in the world and were treated to a view of 2 million bats flying out at dusk to feed on the insects.  I didn’t think that it was going to be all that interesting and almost stayed sleeping in my bed, fatigued from the days climb before, but it was one of the most extraordinary sights I have ever seen in my life. A giant black cloud snaked through the sky performing and arial ballet in front of our eyes.

And that takes us to the end of our Malaysian Borneo adventure, where we finally got to see the Proboscis Monkey up close and personal at…

Proboscis Money, in Bako NP

5. Bako National Park, Sarawak Borneo. Native only to the Island of Borneo, these peculiar monkeys are an intriguing sight.  A golden brown color with a pot belly and a snout nose, this large primate can be found all over Bako.  Walk quietly through the trails, stop to listen for a while and soon you will find yourself amongst a colony playing and feeding above.  At first we couldn’t find a single one, that is until we realised that they were everywhere above us.  We just weren’t standing still long enough to notice.  High in the treetops they leap through the air, playing and munching on mangrove leaves. We even saw one leap into the water and swim for several meters until it emerged at another tree.

Bako National Park Entrance

Getting to Bako is half of the fun. Permits and accomodation be arranged in Kutching, Sarawaks Capital City and then you hop on a bus to catch a boat to the park.  The boat is small and we enjoy the ride, but it is at the approach that it gets fun. Riding the tide in to the shore, we almost capsize in the waves. I am not so worried about myself, I am just worried about our packs that aren’t secured in the boat and just may sink into the sea. But we make it fine and spend the night chilling out at the headquarters and sleeping in our cool private chalet.  An awesome experience.

Crossing another River in Borneo

There are so many great things to do in Borneo, that you need months to fit it all in.  There is diving in Sipadan, The Turtle Sanctuary at Turtle Island, Hiking the Headhunters trail, visiting a longhouse, and many more national parks. I truly is one of the great adventure destinations on the planet. Let’s just hope that the government starts taking care of it so that it will be there to enjoy for years to come.

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The Pinnacles of Borneo, an Adventure in Sarawak

As I look out the window of the small twin engine airplane that is taking me to my destination,  I am overwhelmed with the vastness of the jungle that lays below.

We are enroute to Gunung Mulu National Park in Sarawak, Borneo.  Malaysian Borneo’s southern province.

Here is where that my husband and I will be climbing to the Pinnacles, a stone forest jutting 45 metres out of the earth, in  razor sharp formations.

Part of the fun and challenge is getting there.  It is a remote National park reached only by plane and a short truck ride will take you to the parks headquarters.

It is here that we book our dorm for the night and then looked for people to trek to the Pinnacles with.  It helps to share the costs of the boat and guide otherwise it can be quite expensive.

We arrive with another couple from Holland who were intending to climb and we booked our group for the following day.

Pulling boat on Pinnacle Trek in Borneo

The Pinnacles is not an easy undertaking.  You must carry your own food to last for 3 days and carry your garbage out with you.  The trek itself involves a 2 hour boat ride to the start of an 8.9 km trail which takes you to camp 5 situated at the base of the Pinnacles and  the entrance to the Headhunters. trail.

We boarded our small motor boat at 7:00 and started our journey up the Melinau river, stopping at  Wind Cave and Clearwater Caves.  The longest cave passage in South-East Asia is an impressive sight with a crystal clear river running through it.

After taking a pleasant stroll through the caves, we were eager to move on to the Pinnacles trail and quickly returned to our boat.  The water was low at this time of year and our driver and navigator had their hands full pulling our boat through the shallow river while avoiding rocks and logs.  We were let off at the entrance to the trail,where arrangements were made to be picked up in two days. We then began our 8.8 km jungle hike.

River Crossing in Gunung Mulu, Sarawak Borneo

Within a km we had our first of 2 river crossings.  It was pretty deep and a rope was attached accross the river as a safety line to keep from falling over as the water rushed passed.  We all made it safely and managed to keep our packs dry, but nobody could escape the leaches.  They smuggled their way into our socks and onto our legs and even though we did a thorough check, I still managed to miss a few and entered camp 5 a bloody mess.

It doesn’t hurt, but leaches cause a lot of bleeding and it lasts for a very long time.

We kept up a steady pace and reached our second river crossing in 2 hours.  This one wasn’t quite as intimidating.  No rope was provided, but it was only about 2 feet deep and the water was moving at a liesurly speed.

We all did our required leach assessment and were on our way.

Camp 5, Torrential Downpour in Borneo

We made it to camp 5 by early afternoon and had time to enjoy the views and went for a walk along the headhunters trail.

It is a beautiful location, surrounded by large clifffs,  a quiet stream and lush jungle. We made our dinner of noodle soup and crackers, played some cards and enjoyed meeting new friends.

Our Guide Michael told us about his tribe, the Penan.  They are a nomadic people who view the entire rain forest as their home.  The live in harmony with the land and their knowledge of plants and herbs of the jungle is unparalleled.

In the early evening the rain came with a vengeance and we were worried that we would not be able to summit the following morning.  The park rangers are very strict about not letting people summit if the trail is too dangerous, and this was our one and only shot. No refund, no Pinnacles.  We blew the wad on this trip.  A flight, 170 ringette for the boat, park fees.  A lot of money, but worth it if we get to see it.

Needless to say, nobody slept well  in our basic accommodation of vinyl mats placed in a raised wooden platform.  The rain was relentless all night, but it managed to stop in the morning and thankfully we were allowed to climb.  Cockroaches crawled upon us all night, many people said.  I felt things crawling on me, but didn’t have the nerve to turn on my flashlight.

After filling our bottles with boiled water and eating a hearty breakfast, we joined our guide Micheal at 6:00 to begin our climb. Our group of 4 was joined by 3 other peole and we were off. For the first hour Micheal kept up a furious pace and it was exhilerating to be climbing with such determination.  After a while, he fell back to stay with the slower climbers and we were on our own until we reached the upper portion of the climb, the 17 aluminum ladders.

4 of us waited at the foot of the first ladder, taking pictures, ringing out our soaked shirts and having a snack until the rest of the hikers arrived.  Then the real challenge began.

The Jungle Climb to the Pinnacles of Borneo

Many people who try to climb the Pinnacles do not summit.  It is not a high climb, but it is a technically challenging climb with no safety ropes.

We crossed crevasses on metal beams, balanced on rocks while holding onto a rope over head and climbed up ladders attached to the side of the cliff using anything to hang onto. We had a blast, but i can see how some people would be very uncomfortable.

An hour later we emerged to the Awesome sight of the Pinnacles.  Giant white stones, jutting out of the jungle like shartks teeth.  They were  magestically poised for our viewing.  Soon,  clouds and mist rolled in  making the pinnacles even more ominous.  They turned to a darker shade of grey and took on an even more dramatic look as they towered over the trees.

A Magnificent payoff to a difficult  and exciting climb.

5 hours later, after a slippery and exhausting climb down, we were back at camp showering and relaxing.  Proud of our accomplishment to be among the rare few that venture to this part of the world and make it to the lookout for this spectacular view.

Dave at The Pinnacles of Gunung Mulu National Park, Borneo

The following day we hiked back the 8 km to meet our ride back to park headquarters.

That same afternoon,tired from the journey, but knowing that we only had a limited time in this remarkable land, we hiked out  3km  to deer cave. the worlds largest cave opening.  Here we would witness the phenomenon of 2 million bats emerging from the depths of darkness to perform a ballet in the twilite sky.

It was all I could do to put one foot in front of the other walking along the path, but once the bats appeared, it was worth the exertion.

A giant line of bats circled above becoming longer with each pass until an enless black spiral was formed overhead. It was a wonder of nature.

To explore everything in Gunung Mulu National park could take months. The Sarawak Chamber, the largest cave chamber in the world, rock climbing,  the head hunters trail, The summit of Gunung Mulu and tthe Bario and Kelabit Highlands.  We only scratched the surface with our 5 days, but I am eagerly looking forward to returning in the near furture to explore its vastness in depth.

2 Million bats fly out of Deer Cave in Borneo

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