World Wildlife Wednesday: Malaysian Borneo a Nature Lovers Dream

Hands down one of our favorite adventure destinations on the planet is Malasyian Borneo.  Sabah and Sarawak are exciting provinces filled with beautiful scenery and exciting wildlife.

We had never even considered venturing to Borneo during our Asian Adventure, but when a fellow traveler told us of a great deal on flights from Air Asia, well we just had to go.

I remember seeing Julia Roberts on the Rosie O’Donnell show years earlier talking about an Orangutan Sanctuary that she had filmed a documentary about and that had always been something that I had wanted to see.  So our first stop upon Landing in Kota Kinabalu was to take a bus to Sepilok.  One of two Orangutan Rehabilitation Centres that we had the privilege to visit.

$20 per person goes towards the sanctuary and gives you access to the park and of course viewing the Orangutans during their feeding.  These incredible primates don’t have to come to the feeding if they don’t want to.  They have been rehabilitated and released back in to the wild. The feedings are for newly reintroduced Orangutans to come back to a familiar place.  They need to re-learn how to live on their own, and this helps them to make the transition easier.

To See Borneo’s Wildlife in Action, check out our featured video to the right of the page

The Viewing is absolutely breathtaking.  As the crowd sits on the boardwalk and waits, Orangutans slowly come swinging into view. One at a time they make their way to the platform where workers feed them banana’s and fresh fruit and for an expectant mother and her baby, bottles of formula and vitamins. Astounding.

We went to another Centre in Sarawak called Semenggoh.  This one is not as popular on the tourist track, but we found it to be even more rewarding. There were only 5 of us watching the Orangutans eat and luckily 3 showed up that day for some fresh banana’s and milk.  It is far more rustic and the feeding area is much farther away from the viewing platform than Sepilok, but that is what makes this Centre so special. The Orangutans are hardly exposed to humans at all making their transition that much easier for them.

The Orangutan sanctuary’s were some of the most memorable experiences of our life.  To see the work being done there is a testimate to the human spirit. With the clear cutting of jungle happening at astounding rates in Borneo due to Palm Oil Plantations, the habitat of the Orangutan is running out.  There needs to be more reserves like this if they are to survive.

Early Morning

After moving on from Sepilok, we caught a boat to Uncle Tans Jungle Safari. This rustic lodge is smack dab in the middle of the Jungle. Your days are jammed packed with wildlife viewing.  A morning river cruise to see Proboscis Monkeys, Orangutans and Macaques.  Daytime takes you on a trek through the jungle where you hunt for more wildlife. Wild Pigs hang around the camp and you will also learn all about medicinal plants of the rainforest.

Our Guide Shows us a Bat found in a Leave

Nights are exciting as well.  Take an evening boat ride to look for crocodiles and after dinner take a walk with your guide to see scorpions, spiders and other creepy crawly’s that come out in the dark.

scorpion

Sarawak has its fill of Wildlife too.

A trip to Bako National Park is a treat to walk through the trails and see the highest concentration of Proboscis Monkeys on the planet.  Stop and listen and you will be sure to see the leap and play in the trees above.  The park is filled with monkeys and wild pigs and we saw our fair share of snakes as well.

Wild Pig

If you make it to Gunung Mulu a must see is the 2 million bats that come out of deer cave every evening.  You will be in awe as the bats circle above feeding on insects. Their chain growing larger and larger with each pass.

Borneo is truly a wildlife and bird watchers paradise. There are so many places to view wildlife. We didn’t even talk about the underwater paradise of Sipidan and unfortunately we didn’t make it to the turtle sanctuary.  But that just give us many reasons to go back soon!

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Great Things to do in Malaysian Borneo

Mount Kinabalu, Sabah Borneo

The Legendary Rainforests of Borneo bring to mind images of towering trees, abundant wildlife and a wild foreboding rain forests filled with raging rivers.  Only great explorers would dare to go there, it was home to the Headhunter after all.

The Malaysian Borneo of today is a very different one of 50 years ago.  During the 70′s to 90′s the rain forest was cut down at an alarming rate becoming garden furniture and chopsticks.  Much of its jungle and habitat was wiped out. Sadly, forests are still being clear cut in Borneo to make room for Oil Palm Plantations and poaching of endangered species such as the Orangutan and the Clouded Leopard is on the rise; but there is a glimmer of hope.

The Endangered Orangutan

Conservation and reforestation methods are being introduced and 16% of Sabah’s forested area is protected.  And there are heavy penalties for poaching.  So, now is the time to get yourself to Borneo and see this magical land before it is too late.  Plus if there is one thing that I have learned in my travels, if people can make some money off of tourists coming to see their wildlife and nature, well, they will just work that much harder to protect it.

Our Picks for Top Things to do in Malaysian Borneo

Malaysian Borneo is broken up into two provinces. Sabah and Sarawak.

Each destination can be a trip in itself, but we want to share our top things for both provinces.

Sabah

View from the Summit of Mount Kinabalu

1. Climbing Mount Kinabalu. South East Asia’s highest peak at 4095 meters in a magnificent climb over 2 days.  A two hour bus ride from Kota Kinabalu will take you to the parks gate where you can book the climb, your guide, accommodations and climb. It is recommended that you secure your permits in Kota Kinabalu before you go, but being Dave and Deb, we of course bought them on sight right after the bus let us off at the park. Not a problem though, we secured a climb for the next day with dorm accommodations at Laban Rata at 3500 meters.

• To read more about Mount Kinabalu, enjoy our post Mount Kinabalu, Two Tough Days in Borneo
  
• To see our climb click here to see our video of Cllimbing in Sabah

Dave and Deb at Mount Kinablu Borneo

By far one of the most heartwarming moments of my life was visiting our next destination in Borneo.

2. The Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre

Lodging right beside the park, we stayed at the Sepilok Jungle Resort. A lodge right in the middle of the jungle with boardwalks twisting through the grounds. It is a short walk to the Sepilok Rehabilitation Centre where we were treated to a video explaining the centre and what it has accomplished. Very interesting indeed, but the piéce de resistance is definitely all about the Orangutans. After walking along the jungle path with monkeys playing in the trees, we come out to the feeding platform. Every day, the orangutans can choose to come back for a hearty meal of fruit and vitamin milk. They are orangutans that have either been injured, rescued or orphaned that have been nursed back to health and let back into the jungle.  To make their transition easier, they can come back any time they want for a feast.

Semenggoh Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre, Sarawak

We loved it our time at Sepilok in Sabah province so much that when we went to Borneo’s other Province Sarawak to see the orangutans again. Semenggok Rehabilitation Centre is a far less visited rehab facility, but just as effective and more fulfilling I must say. It was just Dave, Myself and another couple watching the Orangutans munch on their banana’s.  A very touching experience.

Now it is time to see orangutans in the wild

Last Day at Uncle Tans, Sabah Borneo

3. Uncle Tans Jungle Safari

This lodge in Sabah was one of the coolest trips I have ever taken. Take a boat up the The Sungai (river) Kinabatangan right into the heart of the jungle of Borneo, and stay in this rustic camp for a few days.  Your meals and wildlife safaris are included, but if you want some alcohol, bring it with you.  It won’t be needed though because the days are packed.  You can get up at 6:00 am for a morning safari on the boat to check out the life on the river. Morning is a great time to see the Proboscis Monkey.  Another trek will take you into the jungle by foot where you will learn about plant life and smaller amphibians like, the smallest frog in the world.  There is another afternoon safari where you will see a ton of wildlife such as monitor lizards, wild orangutans, proboscis monkeys and civit cats. Then it is off again after dinner for a night safari where you will look for crocodiles.

Check out all of the wildlife of Borneo at our video The Wildlife of Borneo

Smallest Frog in the World

4. The Pinacles of Gunung Mulu National Park

There was so much to do at Gunung Mulu National park in Sarawak Borneo, that it must not be missed.  Fly into it on a twin engine plane and you already feel that you are in the middle of nowhere. We immediately booked out trek to the Pinnalces, the star attraction of the park and settled in for the night.  The next day started with a boat ride, stopping at various caves along the way until we reached the entrance to our trail. We were let off on the shore and proceeded to hike 8 km in the jungle, with two river crossing in the process. We eventually found our way to camp 5 in the middle of the jungle once again where we stayed overnight resting for our climb to the pinnacles.

Pinnacles of Gunung Mulu

First thing in the morning, our guide took us up a rigorous climb. At first we were climbing in slippery and steep jungle, but 3/4 of the way up, we came to the first of seventeen aluminum ladders. This is where it gets fun.  Climbing on ropes and ladders over crevasse’s and drops. It can be a little hair raising, but the payoff is worth it.  Once we emerge around a rock,we are treated to a view of  dozens of jagged limestone layers reaching forty metres high. Magnificent.

To see our climb to the Pinnacles of Borneo check out our video here

Dave at the Pinnacles Lookout

Once we were back at Gunung Mulu Park Headquarters, we made our way out to Deer Cave. It is the largest cave chamber in the world and here we were treated to a view of 2 million bats flying out at dusk to feed on the insects.  It was one of the most extraordinary sights I have ever seen in my life. A giant black cloud snaked through the sky performing and arial ballet in front of our eyes.

Bats at Deer Cave in Malaysian Borneo

And that takes us to the end of our Malaysian Borneo adventure, where we finally got to see the Proboscis Monkey up close and personal at Bako National Park

Proboscis Monkey, in Bako NP

5. Bako National Park, Sarawak Borneo.

Native only to the Island of Borneo, these peculiar monkeys are an intriguing sight.  A golden brown color with a pot belly and a snout nose, the Proboscis Monkey can be found all over Bako.  Walk quietly through the trails, stop to listen for a while and soon you will find yourself amongst a family playing and feeding above.  At first we couldn’t find a single one, that is until we realised that they were everywhere above us.  We just weren’t standing still long enough to notice.

Bako National Park Entrance in Sarawak

Getting to Bako is half of the fun. Permits and accomodation be arranged in Kutching, Sarawak’s Capital City and then you hop on a bus to catch a boat to Bako..  The boat is small and we enjoy the ride, but it is at the approach that it gets fun. Riding the tide in to the shore, we almost capsize in the waves, we make it fine though and spend the night chilling out at the headquarters.

Crossing another River in Borneo

There are so many amazing things to do in Borneo, that you need months to fit it all in.

There is diving in Sipadan, The Turtle Sanctuary at Turtle Island, Hiking the Headhunters trail, visiting a longhouse, and many more national parks. I truly is one of the great adventure destinations on the planet. Let’s just hope that the Malaysian government starts taking care of it so that Borneo will be there to enjoy for years to come.

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The Pinnacles of Borneo, an Adventure in Sarawak

As I look out the window of the small twin engine airplane that is taking me to my destination,  I am overwhelmed with the vastness of the jungle that lays below.

We are enroute to Gunung Mulu National Park in Sarawak, Borneo.

Malaysian Borneo’s southern province.

Here is where that my husband and I will be climbing to the Pinnacles, a stone forest jutting 45 metres out of the earth, in  razor sharp formations.

Part of the fun and challenge is getting to the Pinnacles.

Gunung Mulu is a remote National park reached only by plane and a short truck ride will take you to the parks headquarters in the middle of the jungle.

It is here that we book our dorm for the night and then look for people to trek to the Pinnacles with.  It helps to share the costs of the boat and guide otherwise it can be quite expensive.

Pulling boat on Pinnacle Trek in Borneo

The Pinnacles is not an easy undertaking. You must carry your own food to last for 3 days and carry with you on your back.

The trek itself involves a 2 hour boat ride to the start of an 8.9 km trail which takes you to camp 5 situated at the base of the Pinnacles.

We boarded our small motor boat at 7:00 am and started our journey up the Melinau River, stopping at  Wind Cave and Clearwater Caves.  The longest cave passage in South-East Asia.

The water was low at this time of year and our driver and navigator had their hands full pulling our boat through the shallow river while avoiding rocks and logs.  We were let off at the entrance to the trail,where arrangements were made to be picked up in two days.

The Trek to the Pinnacles

River Crossing in Gunung Mulu, Sarawak Borneo

Within one km of our 8.8km hike we had our first of 2 river crossings.  It was pretty deep and a rope was attached across the river as a safety line to keep from falling over as the water rushed passed.  We all made it safely and managed to keep our packs dry, but nobody could escape the leaches.  They smuggled their way into our socks and even though we did a thorough check, we still entered camp 5 a bloody mess.

We kept up a steady pace and reached our second river crossing in 2 hours.  This one wasn’t quite as intimidating.  No rope was provided, but it was only about 2 feet deep and the water was moving at a leisurely speed.

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We all did our required leach assessment and were on our way.

Camp 5, Torrential Downpour in Borneo

We made it to the Pinnacles base camp by early afternoon and had time to enjoy the views and went for a walk along the headhunters trail.

It is a beautiful location, surrounded by large cliffs,  a quiet stream and lush jungle. We made our dinner of noodle soup and crackers, played some cards and enjoyed meeting new friends.

In the early evening the rain came with a vengeance and we worried that we would not be able to climb to the Pinnacles the following morning.  The park rangers are very strict about not letting people on the trail if it is too dangerous, and this was our one and only shot.

No refund, no Pinnacles.

Needless to say, nobody slept well  in our basic accommodation of vinyl mats placed in a raised wooden platform.  The rain was relentless all night, but it managed to stop in the morning and thankfully we were allowed to climb.

We joined our guide Micheal at 6:00 to begin our climb. For the first hour Micheal kept up a furious pace and it was exhilarating to be climbing with such determination.  After a while, he fell back to stay with the slower climbers and we were on our own until we reached the upper portion of the climb, the 17 aluminum ladders.

Many people who try to climb the Pinnacles do not make it to the lookout.  It is not a high climb, it is steep, exhausting and it is technically challenging with no safety ropes.

We crossed crevasses on metal beams, balanced on rocks while holding onto a rope over head and climbed up ladders attached to the side of the cliff.  We had a blast, but I can see how some people would be very uncomfortable.

An hour later we emerged to the Awesome sight of the Pinnacles.

Giant grey and white stones, jut out of the jungle like razor sharp sharks teeth.  They were  majestically poised for our viewing.

The sight of the Pinnacles were a magnificent payoff to a difficult  and exciting climb.

Dave at The Pinnacles of Gunung Mulu National Park, Borneo

Soon the clouds rolled in bringing an ominous feel to the pinnacles.  That was our cue to leave as we had to be down before the weather rolled in .

5 hours later and a slippery and exhausting climb down, we were back at camp showering and relaxing.

The Break didn’t last for long however.

The following day we had to hike back the 8 km to meet our ride back to Gunung Mulu park headquarters.

We only had a short break upon our return as we had to hike 3 more km  to Deer Cave, the worlds largest cave opening.

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Here we witnessed the phenomenon of 2 million bats emerging from the depths of darkness to perform a ballet in the twilight sky.

2 Million bats fly out of Deer Cave in Borneo

It was all I could do to put one foot in front of the other walking along the path, but once the bats appeared, it was worth the exertion.

A giant line of bats circled above becoming longer with each pass until an endless black spiral was formed overhead. It was a wonder of nature.

To explore everything in Gunung Mulu National park could take months. The Sarawak Chamber, the largest cave chamber in the world, rock climbing,  the head hunters trail, The summit of Gunung Mulu and tthe Bario and Kelabit Highlands.  We only scratched the surface with our 5 days doing the Pinnacle Trek, but I am eagerly looking forward to returning in the near future to explore its vastness in depth.

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