Traveling with Via Rail Canada – Toronto to Montreal

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It had been years since I had taken the train in Canada.  I don’t even think that Dave and I have ever taken the train together.

You see as Canadians, we love to drive.  Canadians have no problem taking a road trip for 5 or 6 hours to get somewhere.  Driving to Montreal from Toronto is a quick 5 hour drive along the 401 with a couple of Tim Horton stops in between.  People go to the cottage every weekend and face 2 to 3 hour traffic every Friday evening just to get away from the city.  And yes, everyone has a Timmie’s coffee in their hand.

Driving is a way of life in Canada

We drive to Florida, it takes 21 hours.  We drive to the east coast. It takes 21 hours.  Canadians get behind the wheel of their cars and trucks and cruise down our well maintained highways, stop at fast food restaurants and follow our well organized roads.

We love our cars in this country. At 16 years of age we all take our driving test and head out on the roads.  You just can’t get around this country without a car.

That is why it is so strange to find ourselves on Via Rail en route to Montreal.  Montreal is a road trip that we take frequently.  But this time, we didn’t have our car.  Our car is sitting in storage as we travel the world searching for the next great adventure.

How would we manage to get ourselves to Montreal for our flight to France?

Lucky for us, Via Rail was having a Spring seat sale and we got our round trip tickets from Woodstock (1 1/2 hours west of Toronto) to Montreal for the low price of $90.   We had to give it a try.

The little Woodstock train station!

My parents dropped us off at the little Woodstock train station and all we noticed was how things haven’t changed for years. It looks like the same as it has for 100 years.  A little one horse town stop. As we sat there waiting for a train which arrived only 10 minutes late, we thought about how people waited for trains a century ago standing on a platform exactly like this.

Free Wifi! Awesome!

The trains themselves are another story though.  Our little Canadian Railway, Via Rail has become fast, modern and efficient.  Complimentary wifi service is provided and almost everyone in the car has their laptops out armed and ready for some healthy twittering, facebook chatting or watching a movie to pass the time.

You can really travel in comfort!

The reclining seats are spacious and comfortable.  We must admit that we are easily impressed after traveling on the India Rail system for 3 months, but Via Rail is a luxury.  There is an abundant of leg room, the seats and windows are spotless and temperature on board is perfect.  They provide power outlets and trays to either work on your laptop or to put your food and drinks on.  Meals aren’t included in the price of the ticket but a friendly vendor comes around regularly selling snacks, coffee and soft drinks.

The toilets are clean and smell free.  It is wonderful to go into a bathroom where people actually care about the person going in next.  There are signs asking everyone to clean up after themselves and low and behold, they do! The smell wasn’t even that bad in there either.

Two Legs to the trip

Union Station in Toronto.

We had to transfer in Toronto at Union Station. With our hour layover we decided to go to Harveys for a veggie burger and fries.  Harveys is located right in the train station and a great way to fill up before facing the 5 hour journey.

Union Station is a Grand Old Station dating back to the 1920′s. The main entrance is a great hall with vaulted ceilings and marble floors. Unfortunately train travel is not popular in Canada and whenever we go into the train station it is nearly empty.  Today was no exception.

Boarding the Trains

One thing we were surprised about was that there are no security checks.  We personally don’t care because security checks seem to be more for show than anything else.   But we were surprised to see that they didn’t bother to check bags.  I thought everyone was checking bags these days.

Luggage restrictions??

We were worried that we were going to be charged an over baggage fee.  This train didn’t have a luggage check and we were only allowed 2 carry on bags 26 inches in length.  We were over by a couple of inches all around.  We are packing a lot for Europe since we are camping our way through France. We have rented a car for the time we are there, so we decided to pack big.  A luxury we rarely allow ourselves.

Nobody gave us a second glance as they checked our ticket.  When we got on the train, we saw that everyone over packed. I am not sure why they bother making these rules. But it worked out well for us.

Ah Canada, it is good to be home to this clean country with few crowds, little corruption, no backsheesh and no machine guns or security checks at every corner.

High Price

The Cost!

The problem with the trains in Canada is you pay for the comfort.  Train travel is not cheap in Canada. The prices are high car travel is the more affordable alternative for most Canadians.   If Via Rail really wants to attract more customers to their train system, they have to drop the prices.  When a flight to Montreal from Toronto is comparable and shorter, why would anyone travel by rail?  If driving to Montreal is cheaper and just as fast, why would I take the train? If it were the same price as the Spring sale all year round, I am sure that more Canadians would look to train travel as an option to travel through this vast and fabulous country.

But on that note, next year you really have to take advantage of the Spring Sale if Via Rail has it again.  The $90 round trip price is a bargain and it is fabulous to go from downtown Toronto to the heart of Montreal.  This spring sale is good for all of Canada as well, not just the Toronto-Montreal route.

I know that we will make our summer travel plans and Via Rail will be a big part of it if they have their spring sale again.

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India Rail Travel Tips Part 3

We have come a long way since our first journey on India’s train system. India Rail can be a little complicated to navigate, but once you learn a few tips and tricks, you can actually navigate yourself around the country quite easily.

Here are some pointers that will make your train travel through India much easier.

That first day we had no idea where to stand on the platform or how to find our seats, let alone our car and what the ticket even meant.  Some of our favorite experiences in India have taken place on the train. We have made new friends, enjoyed wonderful conversations and enjoyed mixing it up with the locals.  General Class on India Rail is always an adventure and a ton of fun.  People are a little shocked to see a tourist sitting on the seat, but they quickly embrace you and look after you.  Everyone is always willing lend a hand.

To find out the basics on how to book a train ticket online or at the window, how to find your seats and your carriage and how it all works check out our other posts below.

• Figuring Out India Rail Travel
• India Rail Train Travel Tips and Tricks
• Travel Dudes – Traveling India Rail

We are nearing the end of our trip in India and we wanted to share a few last pointers that we have learned about taking the train in India.

1. If you can’t reserve your seat what can you do? India’s trains are always overbooked. You have to reserve your seats weeks in advance and sometimes you just can’t get on a train.  It can be frustrating and difficult when you are number 2 and 3 on the wait list and your seats don’t confirm.  But there is hope. We have started doing this no a regularly basis and haven’t had a problem.

Go to the train station anyway.  Buy a general class ticket to the destination of your choice.  Find out where the AC Chair Class, 3 A or 2 A classes will be arriving on the platform, You can read how here and then find the train captain for that car.  We have hopped on 3A and Chair Class without a problem.  We just ask the train captain if there are any seats available and he sticks us in an empty one.

He has the chart and he can tell you where to go.  You will have to pay the upgrade, but this is all completely legitimate. You will receive a receipt and you can stay in your chair or bed for the duration of the train.

Beware however, sometimes men pose as India Rail employees and try to scam tourists out of money.  Make sure you are talking to the actual train captain. He will have a navy blue jacket, charts in his hand and a name tag.  He will also be assisting the local people Not just the tourists.

2. Know the number of the train you are booking your general class ticket for. For example, When buying a ticket to Delhi,  don’t just buy any ticket to Delhi.  You need to know the express train number that has the AC cars.  We have made the mistake of not having our tickets confirm after booking them online and going to the train station anyway. We have seen other trains going to our destination and hopped on the first one that arrived.  Sure, it was still going to the same destination, but it was a general class train that stopped at every single remote train station in the country.  If we would have stuck to the train that we tried to book online, we would have been on a more direct route and not spent hours on end trying to get to our destination.

3. If the entire train is a general seating train only, don’t get on. It is a train that once again will stop at every single station along the way.  Sometimes we have felt that we would be fine in the general seating compartment and got on the train because it was the first one to arrive at the station.  Big mistake.  Our 4 hour journeys have turned into 9 hour epic rides.  Normally trains that have AC classes and sleeper classes stop less and are more direct.

4.  Don’t be in a hurry when taking the train. India Rail is very slow.  The trains putter along and stop at stations for up to a half hour at a time.  Just take a deep breath (sometimes easier said than done) and know that you are going to be on the train for a long haul and there is nothing that you can do about it.

5. Most trains stations have a prepaid taxi booth.  Don’t let touts meet you on the platform to offer rickshaw rides.  They won’t give you a good deal normally.  First look for the prepaid taxi booth to get a fair price, most major train stations have them.  If they don’t have a prepaid booth, walk outside before getting your taxi. When there are several vying for your business you will get a better price.  The guys that meet you on the platform at your arrival always quote very high.

6. If you know your itinerary, book all your tickets in advance. You can book your India Rail Tickets up to two months in advance.  If you have a set itinerary and know when you will be leaving each place, it is wise to book your tickets online in advance at the IRCTC Online Passenger Reservation site.

It can become a little confusing on that site so read our post Figuring out India Rail on how to book your tickets online and where to go to look up the train number and codes that you need.

7. Get ready to body check someone. We have arrived at some very busy train stations and it can be crazy trying to get off the train.  Indians have a strange habit of piling on the train before letting anyone else off.  You will have to go through hoards of people to make your way off.  Just put your head down and push and shove your way through. Nobody will mind, they will be doing the same themselves.  We have even seen people pushing through open windows to try and get on the train.  Strange and surreal indeed.  But don’t stress yourself out, this doesn’t happen often during our entire three months of traveling on India Rail.  It only occurred a few times.

8. Don’t stand close to the door with your packs on. The doors remain open on the train,during the trip and people hang out them and stand by them all the time.  People even jump off while the train is still moving.  You would be wise to keep your distance.  Especially with your pack on, you don’t want to be nudged and sent flying out the door.  Just stay in or near your seat until the train stops and then make your way through the masses once you arrive at your destination.

9. Keep back from the tracks. People die on a regular basis in India by falling into the tracks when a train arrives.  For some reason everyone gets crazy. They don’t believe in queues so it is a free for all when the train comes.  If you have reserved seats, there is no reason to rush into the car. Stay back and wait for the train to arrive.  If you follow our advice in all of the posts above, you will know where to stand on the platform to be in front of the proper car.  After everyone is through with pushing and shoving each other, you will be able to walk in safely and comfortably.  Don’t fret about this too much, normally reserved seating is far more civilized anyway.

10. Eat the Food. Some of the best food we have had in India has been on the train.  India rail has guys walking the aisles selling chai, tomato soup, pakoras, chips…you get the idea.  They offer full meals of biryani, omelets, curries and sandwiches.  We even love ordering from the guys that come on at the stations with peanuts, spicy nut mixtures, oranges and  samosas.  We even call the guys with the carts out the window to grab some tasty deep fried goodies for a treat.  Everything costs only 5 to 20 rupees (10-50 cents) and they are safe and delicious.

There you have it.  Between all our previous posts and the tips mentioned above, you should have no problem navigating the India Train System.  Just remember to enjoy yourself.  India Rail can be intimidating, but it is also a wonderful experience.  The scenery is beautiful, the people are friendly and it is a moment that you will never forget.

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Train Travel, Sri Lanka

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One of the most pleasant ways of traveling around Sri Lanka is by train.  Sri Lanka is a small country so you don’t have to worry about overnight sleepers as in India and booking the train is a dream.  Just show up at the station a few minutes before your departure, buy a second class ticket and  you are off!

The trains move slowly in Sri Lanka and you will be happy to enjoy the scenery of life as you pass. Especially in the mountains and high country near Ella, Nuwara Eliya and Hatton.  It chugs slowly along through Tea Plantations, dense forest and spectacular mountain Vistas.

Best Views

It is important to know where to sit on the train.  They fill up quickly and if you are on the wrong side, you may be stuck looking at a wall of high cliffs rather than deep valleys and blue skies..  Talk to other travelers that have just arrived by train and find out what side of the train to sit on for the best view.

The train is always packed in all of Sri Lanka and if you aren’t quick to find a seat, you may be stuck in standing room only.  People hang out the door and windows and at times I am amazed that more people haven’t fallen out or had their heads taken off by a rock or tree branch.  But they have traveled this route for years and probably know every twist and turn. Plus the slow moving train makes you feel as if you are safe to hang off the side, not that Dave and I attempted the open concept of train travel.

That's One Way to Catch the Train

Check out this video of just how relaxed the train travel is in Sri Lanka.

I have yet to see a train captain come through to check tickets and between second class and general seating there seems to be little difference other than the seats.

The crowds can be the same in both. We even we ended up in general class once enjoying an open plot of floor by the window. We had second class tickets, but it was so crowded, general seating ended up being more comfortable.

Atmosphere on the Train

Train travel in Sri Lanka is very relaxed. Men walk through with snacks and drinks and people chat like it is Sunday afternoon tea.

Sri Lankan trains run as they have for 50 years.  The trains haven’t changed since the colonial days of the British.  Stations are spotless and adorable.  They are old Victorian structures that still tell passengers if their train is on time by using wooden tiles that hang on the schedule post.  Tickets are sold at the single window and you are given a stub which must be returned at the end of your journey.

Conductors walk the platform followed by the resident dog, and even the bathrooms are spotless with signs separating ladies and gents in second and general class. I don’t think a person would have a care in the world if a general ticket holder walked into the second class ticket room.

We really enjoy riding the trains in Sri Lanka.

People are helpful when you try to find your stop and are very friendly.  The asked us questions like where are we from and do we love Sri Lanka. They enjoyed the conversations as much as we did.

Some trains have an observation car at the back of the train.  This is a beautiful way to travel in total comfort and take in the view without the crowds.  You must book these cars well in advance however, so know your travel schedule well.

Costs and more information

• Trains are cheap in Sri Lanka tickets can range from less than 100 Rs to up to 700 Rs for the observation car.  With 112 RS equling $1 USD that is some pretty reasonable travel at les than $7 for the most expensive ticket.
• Prices vary on length but you won’t find anything that will break the pocket book.
• There are toilets on the trains and they really aren’t that bad.

So, if you find yourself traveling to Sri Lanka in the future, make sure to do yourself a favor and take the train around the country. It is an amazing way to immerse yourselves with the locals and it offers spectacular views of this country filled with a rich and varied landscape.

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India Rail Video, A First Timer’s Experience

We had heard the horror stories of traveling in India.  We had heard a lot about India before we traveled here.   After spending a month in the country, we have thrown out everything that we have ever heard about the country and created our new thoughts on India.

It has been easier than we had imagined.  The people that we have met have been friendly and helpful and it has been just a wonderful experience.

The biggest problem that we have faced so far is making a reservation to travel.

The trains in India are very busy and you must book several days in advance.  That means that you have to be very organized, (which of course Dave and I are not) What a person really needs to do, is book their ticket out of a city the day that they arrive at the train station.

The one problem is that we never know how long we want to stay in a place. So this would never work for us.  When we arrived in Hampi, our rickshaw driver suggested that we do that, but we had no idea how long we wanted to stay in Hampi.  After trying to book a train a few days later, we couldn’t leave for almost a week…now we are taking the bus:(

You see in India, Twenty Million people take the train every day!

Trains are always overbooked and there is a wait list. Sometimes a wait list is 60 people long! According to India Rail, we can book online, but their website does not take our Canadian Credit Card.  Booking train stations are often far away, and you are at the mercy of high commissions with travel agents.

We tend to feel trapped and it has become a bit of a problem for us during our travels.  We like to move on whenever we feel like it, but in India (especially during the holidays) things don’t work that way.

So, even though we have enjoyed our train travel experiences and we would love to travel on India Rail more often, our advice to you is to plan your route thoroughly, book your tickets in advance and know where you are going and when you want to get there. It will make you a very happy person indeed.

Believe the stories that you have heard.  If you don’t book a train ticket in advance, chances are slim to none that you will get out of a place and on to the next destination for fun and adventure in India.

Enjoy our video of our first night on a sleeper train in the 3 tiered air conditioned class.

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The Great India Rail Seat Switcheroo

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It happens regularly, but foreigners would never notice.

The Negotiations Begin

For every overnight train trip, payoff and bribes happen with a flurry.

You see, the trains in India are always over booked and many times you won’t get the seat that you want or sometimes even what you paid for.  In 3AC for example, the berths on one side of the train have six beds and six seats.  If you are one of the unlucky people sitting on the other side with three seats and two beds, you are in trouble.  Two people on the lower berths will not be sleeping tonight! That side of the train should have 3 and 3, but it only has 2 beds for three people.

This is where the switcheroo happens.
It all starts about two hours before lights out.
A frenzy of activity occurs as people try to pay off the car captain to get themselves a bed.
We never would have known about this, but one of the guys that was sitting with us was going through that exact situation.  He shared what was going on with us.

Here is how it works.

Sometimes people don’t show up for their voyage and seats become available.  The captain know exactly where those seats are

2 berths, three people...hmm

and exactly where everyone is supposed to be sitting.
Don’t think that you will ever get away with sneaking into another bed because there is a well paid queue waiting ahead of you.
The Captain knows who is getting on and off where and when and he knows how long a seat will be vacant.

The good news is, if you happen to be sitting in the non air conditioned SL Class, you can slip him a couple of hundred Rupees and chillax for few hours until the rightful seat owner arrives.  If you are willing to pay enough, you could even get a bed for the night.

Who Can do the Switcheroo?

Can foreigners take part in this switcheroo?
It is doubtful.  Our friend was having problems getting an upgrade simply because he didn’t speak the Captains dialect.  Everyone in India speaks Hindi and most English, but they also speak the language of their separate regions. If you happen to come from the same region as the man in charge of the seats, you will receive preferential treatment.

Tension runs high

It can become heated at times.  One guy got on the train late only to find out that his seat had already been so.
A good fifteen to twenty minutes of yelling went on and he eventually got his seat back.
More money was exchanged, some was given back and the line up started again.
People were standing beside the free seats that they wanted ready to pounce and claim their prize.

Happy Endings

Our friend eventually got his reward.  He was patient and friendly and he was willing to fork out another 250 ($5.80 Cdn) Rupees on top of his 1000 ($23 Cnd) Rs trip.   He was lucky enough to be promoted to 2AC for a comfortable nights sleep in style.
It provided hours of entertainment.
So the next time you travel on India Rail, watch out for these exchanges and you will understand what is happening.
Keep a close eye though, it is very discreet.  If someone blatantly offers money in public, he will be shot down faster than a cow being chased off of a beach in Goa.

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India Rail, Train Travel Tips and Tricks

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Train travel in India can be intimidating for a fist timer.

It can be confusing and overwhelming, but once you figure it all out, it isn’t so bad at all.
The easiest way to book a ticket on India Rail is to do so online at http://www.irctc.co.in/ Make sure to have a printer handy to print out your ticket. You can read more about how to book India Rail Tickets online at our post Figuring Out India Rail Travel
However a trip to the train station is always an adventure.
The first thing that you will need to know about train travel in India the class system.
For overnight bookings you will definitely want to be comfortable.  You need to know that difference between classes when you book your ticket or you may end up on a very uncomfortable journey.

Here are some tips to help make your India Rail bookings easier

India Rail Classes:
1AC – Air conditioned, private room with locking doors.  T or 4 berth
2AC – Air conditioned two tiered beds, 4 people to a berth
3AC - Air conditioned, three tiered beds, 6 people to a berth
CL - Chair Class padded reclining seats with air conditioning
SL - Sleeper Class, Non air conditioned tiered berths.
2nd class – unreserved seating, free for all

1,2 and 3 AC are travelers best bets for overnight trains. They are clean, cool and comfortable.  Plus they are quiet and you won’t be breathing in the fumes from the trains when they enter a tunnel. A local man from India that was riding in 3 AC with us said, “SL is loud and you go insane listening to clickety clack, clickety clack.”

How to Book your Train Ticket – from the train station.

1. Go to the computer reservation desk.
2. Get a form.  Go right to the front of the line and ask for a form first thing. You aren’t budding in line, you just need to get that piece of paper.
3. Get in line and fill out the form while standing in line.  Otherwise several people will get ahead of you while you fill out your form at the table and it can be a very long wait.
4. Know the name of the train station that you want to go to.  Stops are not always the same name as the city and the ticket agent may not know the stop that you want if you simply say Goa because there are several stops for Goa.
5. There will most likely be a waiting list when you book your tickets.  India rail tickets are always sold out and you will rarely get a seat that day.  Being 1 to 10 on the waiting list is a very good chance that you will get your seat confirmed if you are booking on 3AC class.  2Ac may be a different story as there aren’t as many seats. Sometimes even higher numbers will be confirmed. The sooner you book your train ticket in advance, the better chance that you will get on the train when you want to.

At the Train Station

Getting on the right car of the train can be just as confusing as anything.

We got on the wrong car our first train trip because we didn’t know where to look for our number.  As we learned however, the India rail system is very well organized and if you know where to look, you will be able to find what you need.

1. Go to the computer to confirm your booking seat number.  Punch in your PNR number and the screen will give you all the

A Good Nights Sleep

information that you need.
2. Write down your information on your train ticket and go to the electronic board to look for your train number and car number.
3. Proceed to the engine number that coincides with your train and car by number. It will be listed on the board as well.  Stand and wait at the engine number on the platform until your train arrives.  India trains are very long containing several boxcars, so you want to make sure that you wait at the right spot.
4. Don’t take too long to board.  Sometimes trains wait awhile at the station, other times they leave without warning.
Most likely people will be sitting in your seat, Just tell them your number and they will move, or simply make room for you.
5. Know the names of a couple of stops before yours.  There aren’t announcements on most trains and you simply have to keep an eye out for your stop.  Know the time that you arrive and start watching for the stops before yours.
6. Gather all of your belongings ahead of time and be prepared.  Like #4 on this list…trains in India can sometimes stop for a long time and other times not so long at all barely giving you time to grab your bags and get to the door.

Tips

One or our Berth Mates, Father Yaunon

1. Put your luggage under your seat right away. It fills up quickly and if you set it above on a bed, you won’t have a place to put it later.

2. Bring a chain lock or pack safe.  On a 3AC Sleeper train, you could be 3 beds high and not notice anyone come into your berth. While you are sleeping, you will never know who will walk through.  Having your valuables locked to a pole or bed will give you a more relaxed sleep.

3. Food is provided, but not included.  Water, chai and sodas are available for sale.  You will never go hungry.  There is always someone going through offering food and drink.  If you don’t want to buy food on the train, bring your own snacks.
Have an alarm.  Nobody is going to come and wake you up when your stop, it is all up to you.

Taking the train in India is the easiest and most comfortable way to travel through the country.

Our Seat mates, Churchill and Dalti

Train travel in India can be a lot of fun and it is a wonderful way to get to know the people of India.  When you are stuck in a berth staring at each other with your knees almost touching, you have no choice but to chat and get to know each other. By the time your stop comes, you won’t want to get off the train because you have made such great new friends in the lovely country of India.

Thanks to all of our new friends that helped us, by giving us information on rail travel, coming to check on us before our stop, buying us soup and translating all the conversations going on around us.

We will never forget our first overnight sleeper train on India rail and luckily our ticket booking wasn’t the nightmare that we have always heard about.

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