The Incredible Temples of Bagan, Mynmar

Everyone loves ancient ruins.  I find that we are drawn to find out about the past and to explore how people lived centuries ago, we already felt as if we had stepped back in time, but to enter the grounds of Bagan, we definitely felt that nothing had changed here for centuries.

Birds Eye View

Built between 1000 and 1300 AD, Bagan has to be one of the least visited temple complexes in South East Asia.

For Centuries, the Burmese people had lived within the grounds of Bagan, but unfortunately as with everything in Myanmar, the military started clearing them out in 1990.

Located on the banks of the Ayeyarwaddy River, it is a sight to behold.

Time Stands Still

Unesco tried to make it a world heritage sight, but the Myanmar Miliary Junta has refused and restored the temples in a shoddy manner.  They didn’t stay true to style or design, but  still it is a magnificent place to visit for the sheer volume and scenery.

Thatbyinnyu Pahto

With over 2000 Pagodas and Temples spanning across 40 miles of land it is truly magical to stand atop Thatbyinnyu Pahto temple to look out over the countryside.

Seeing Ruins by Horse Cart

We saw the ruins on horse cart. I highly recommend this way of seeing them.  There is a lot of ground to cover and to travel from place to place listening to the clip clop of your horse really puts you in a great mood.

Young Monks at Shwezigon Temple

We visited many temples on our first day. The first stop was the Shwezigon Temple.  It was magnificent.  A huge golden temple that was so large, we had difficulty fitting into our photo.  Many of Myanmar’s temples are fashioned after this temple and it is still used as a place of worship.

Shwezigon Temple

Our next stop was Ananda Pahto.  It was the inside that was extraordinary with 4 giant Buddha Statues facing north, south, east and west.   We also saw Buddha’s footprint.

Ananda Pato, Buddha

The highlight was standing atop to actually see a panoramic view of all of the temples. This was the view I had seen on so many travel shows in the past. The view that made me want to go there and the view that was definitely worth the trip.

Bagan Temples

Like everything in Burma, Bagan was not easy. Children tried to make money by selling post cards or to give you a tour.  The days were hot and you had to make sure to see the temples early in the morning, and because of the history of how the junta is treating its people, you can’t help but feel guilty entering the grounds. After all, your entry fee is going directly to an oppressive regime.

Man at Work in Bagan

However, when I gave my horse cart driver a large tip on top of what we paid him for the tour I felt that I was at least helping him in my own little way. He had just had a baby a week earlier, so tourist money would be desperately needed for him since that is how he makes his living.  And I do sound like a broken record whenever I say this, but I feel that to visit a country can only help it.  How would you feel if the whole world refused to take notice of you because of your government? If people keep visiting and attempting to travel responsibly, change is bound to happen.

Reclining Buddha

On a side note: I hear that there are luxury resorts and a golf course at Bagan, thank God I never saw them. I cannot believe that people would go to the grounds of an ancient and important spiritual place in history to play golf.

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A Guide to Bartering While Traveling

A Market at Inle Lake in Myanmar

Shopping abroad can be a challenging experience for a new traveler.  While here in the west we are used to having price tags on everything, in the developing world it is normal to barter for your goods.  It can be tiring and hard on your nerves at times, but if you keep an open mind and have some fun bantering back and forth it can be very enjoyable.  You will emerge from the market surviving one of the most rewarding experiences of travel.

Here are some ground rules that Dave and I always follow when bartering in markets around the world.

Dave at a Market See, he's Smiling!

1. Always barter with a smile.  Bartering is fun and if you can laugh back and forth until you settle on a price,  you will get a great deal and have a good time in the process.  You will come out of it happy and you just may make a new friend along the way. I had read that people were very aggressive in Vietnam and were miserable to Tourists.  I was almost afraid to go shopping, but I ended up having some of my favorite memories of shopping at the market in Ho Chi Min. I remember trying to walk away because we just weren’t interested in what they were selling. The merchants would tug on our sleeves to come back and they would block our way as we tried to leave. They had huge smiles on their faces. They were laughing, we were laughing and we eventually gave in.  Their offers were just too good to ignore.

A Happy Vendor at the Market

2. Never try to devalue what things are worth.  Sure, you know that when you pay a few dollars for something that the person selling the item is making money off of you at “tourist prices”  But is there anything wrong with that?  Too many people become upset that they are not paying what the locals pay, but stop and think about this for a minute.  If you are paying 1 dollar for a T-shirt; is that something to complain about?  It is a great deal and that is all that should matter.

A Market in Wadi Halfa, Sudan

3. Have and idea of what you want to pay before you start bartering. You don’t want to waste their time or yours by bartering with no goal.  Do the research and know what the going rate is.  This goes hand in hand with my point above, yes, you shouldn’t worry about paying a little more than the locals do, but you also shouldn’t be taken to the cleaners just because you are a tourist.  Guide books like the Lonely Planet help to give an idea on what you should buy.  But also, taking your time before you buy helps a lot as well.  Walk around for a while and see what offers you get.  You will be surprised how much things vary from stall to stall.  Then you can feel it out by giving your first offer on something small.  If they scoop it up and accept it right away, well you could have gotten it for cheaper, but chances are, you still made a good deal. And by comparing items with the price of what you just bought,  you will have an idea what other things are worth.

Market at Aguas Callientas in Peru

4. The Rule of thumb usually has been to cut the price in half and go from there.  I personally still follow this rule.  It doesn’t mean that I only pay half price, but it is a good start.  Sometimes half can be insulting, and you can easily tell  by their reaction. If you feel that you have offended and gone too low, well just up the price quickly with a laugh and a smile.  Sometimes in places like the Night Market in Chang Mai, half might not be enough.  I have bought things in Bangkok for a certain price and then gone to Chang Mai and they have marked it up considerably to the point that I am insulted.  Then again, in Peru, I found that people would only take a few dollars off of the price and when I decided that it wasn’t a good enough deal, they let me walk away. That is when I know it was a good deal.

A Market in Moshi, Tanzania

5. Dave and I have a routine where we seem to fall into the “good cop/bad cop role.” I am the bleeding heart that will pay anything and he is the hard core barterer. Now I am not saying that he doesn’t negotiate with a smile, he just really likes the game.  He will know what he wants to pay and will have no problem walking away if it is not what he is willing to buy it for. If it weren’t for Dave, I would be taken to the cleaners everyday and then my traveling time would be cut in half. Not to mention, I would resent the fact that I payed so much.  Dave negotiates down to a super deal and I give in and give a little extra back.  Everybody wins!

So there is our 5 ideas for bartering and making deals. It seems to work for us. We have a great time shopping and get a rush out of it. Once we start we get really into it.  We absolutely love all of our artifacts that we have gathered over the years. When people visit our place, they are amazed with how it is decorated. They are even more amazed when we tell them what we paid for everything.  To buy such things at home would cost a fortune, so even if we paid an extra dollar or two during our bartering process, it was still a bargain overall.

Happy Shopping.

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Memories of Myanmar

Visiting Burma was one of our most fulfilling travel experiences.  It was a difficult travel taking local transport.  The 30 hours in transit from Kyaikto to Inle Lake was definitely a difficult journey. We transferred from bus, to van, to the back of a truck to a taxi.  It was hot, it was crowded, it was long.  But the people we so friendly.  Not many could speak English, but it didn’t stop them from practicing with us every chance that they got.

We tried hard not to give money to the government by traveling independently. But we all know that somehow, someway the did get a piece of the pie. However, we talked to many people about whether or not we should be traveling there.  Aung San Suu Kyi had told tourists not to come to her country. But when we talked to people on the street, they welcomed us.  They were happy that we were not staying in the big resorts run by the government and they were happy that we hired local guides, took local transit and stayed in small guest houses.  As one man said, Sanctions only help the Generals.

We felt secure in our choice to visit Myanmar. We found a great guide in Mandalay “Julius Caesar.” We stepped off our bus very early in the morning, he approached us and asked us if we needed a guide and we said sure.  He took us around to all of the back entrances and out of the way places. He was a former student who was arrested during the uprising and talked to us about the country and its history.

Now with the trial of Aung San Suu Kyi going on, our hearts are saddened once again. Are thoughts are with the people of Burma who were so welcoming and giving towards us during our time there.   The situation in Myanmar breaks our hearts, but I think that if more people visit, maybe one day the doors will open up.  How can a country be isolated from the world and stand a chance?

Here are some of our greatest memories from Myanmar/Burma.

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Our Favorite Ruins of the World

We have been lucky enough to see some of the most magnificent sights on earth.  The ones that always seem to amaze us the most are the incredible ruins and temples of the world. To understand how they were made with such precision and how they have endured over the centuries is mind boggling.  Each ruin that we have traveled to has always had something in common with another, even if they are on the other side of the world.

Here is a list of our favorite ruins in the world that we had visited.

6. Angkor Wat

Tree Growing out of Ta Prom Temple at Angkor Wat

Located in Cambodia this majestic complex consists of hundreds of temples covering 500 acres of land. Mother nature has done her work well reclaiming the land once ruled by the Khmer Empire. The jungle had almost swallowed up the temples of Angkor, until great efforts were made in restoration. In recent years many temples have been restored to their original grandeur. The Main Temple of Angkor Wat is well preserved and a breathtaking sight. Its five main towers jut into the air as high as 66 meters (215 ft) from its 1.6 km (1 mile) long base.You can witness the strength of nature by visiting the temple of Ta Prom. Left in its original state, vines and roots twist through the complex breaking apart solid rock as trees rise through its roof far into the air. Not to be missed is Angkor Tom. Imposing statues of 54 Gods and 54 Demons line the causeway leading up to the temple.

I think that Angkor Wat would have been number 1 on our list if we had visited 5 years earlier.  From what I heard, you could walk through the ruins for hours without seeing another person.  However when we visited it in 2004, we spent most of our time having our tuk tuk driver  outrun tour buses.  At sunset on Bakhen Hill, you can overlook the entire land, but it wasn’t quite as special when you were jockeying for a position and trying to see over the other hundreds of tourists heads.  Never the less it is well worth a visit.

Dave & Deb At Pyramids of Giza

The first pyramids I had ever heard about as a child.  Wow, the pyramids of legend and the top of most peoples “must see” lists.  We finally made it to the piéce de resistance of all of the pyramids in the world.  Driving through Cairo, you can see the pyramids from almost everywhere.  When we landed at the airport and took our minivan to our hotel, I could see them out the window and couldn’t wait to get up close and personal.

The most incredible way to see them is to hire a camel and guide.  You start walking through the maze of back streets getting a real taste of Cairo and then you walk into the desert riding high on its back. Definitely feeling like we were Lawrence of Arabia, we fantasized about how it must have felt to come upon these great monuments after a long caravan in the desert.

We were spoiled as well and got to the Pyramids twice.  Riding in the Tour d’Afrique, we were lucky enough to cycle to the Pyramids of Giza at sunrise.  Nobody else was around and we had them all to ourselves, stopping at the Sphynx and riding along side camels and their guides getting ready for the day.

Maybe it is because we had seen many temples and ruins before visiting this number one attraction in the world that it is only number 4 on our list, but we have enjoyed others that we found to be far more magical.

4.Bagan

Thatbyinnyu Pahto Temple; Bagan, Myanmar

Definitely the least visited Ruin that we have ever visited. Bagan is a wonder of Asia. Located in Myanmar (Burma) we took a ferry from Mandalay on the Irrawady River to the ruins.  This Buddhist complex was built in 1057 and covers 16 square miles.

We hired a horse cart to take us through the complex and it was magical.  Time stands still in most of Burma and this feeling is even heightened in Bagan.  Farmers ride by on their ox carts, very few many locals pray at the temples and monks walk the street in the morning searching for alms.

Like most other ruins, the highlight is walking to the top of  the highest temple; Thatbyinnyu Pahto to overlook the complex.  But one of the most extraordinary temples is Ananda Pahto.  Inside stands 4 giant Buddhas and two sacred Buddha footprints. Visiting Bagan made a believer out of me! It is a spiritual sight that gives off a feeling of calm and peace.

What we loved about Bagan was how we could enter almost all of the temples.  We studied their scriptures up close and checked out the architecture.  This was actually the only ruin that we spent 2 full days exploring.  It is just to big and extraordinary.

It is sad that this extraordinary site is located in a country run by a military junta.  They unfortunately are doing a terrible job restoring the pagodas. Shoddy work with no care for staying with its original design.  But the temples that are restored and have weathered time are an incredible sight and worth a visit.  It would have been higher on the list if the government didn’t repress its people so much.  How can we give a site top marks if it isn’t staying true to the message of its ancestors and respecting its people.

3. Machu Picchu

Deb at Machu Picchu

Nestled high in the Andes Mountains of Peru, at 2500 meters it is certainly the most extraordinary ruin on the planet.  How did the Incas build this incredible complex so high on the side of a cliff?  Built in the 1400’s Machu Picchu is remarkably well preserved.  Arriving early in the morning, it is shrouded in cloud, but as the sun rises and burns off the fog, a majestic vision unfolds.  200 buildings, terraced high on the side of the mountain surrounded by jungle, vegetation and clear blue skies.

The highlight is looking at the entire complex from an adjacent peak.  Sitting on a ledge plunging into the abyss, I was a little worried about the children running around and hanging their feet over the side.  But the breathtaking views quickly drew my focus back to the temples.  Luckily no one fell over, and I could enjoy its beauty as Llama’s and El Paccas grazed in a step below.

We should have hired a guide for our journey throughout the complex and because we went to Peru on a whim, we didn’t have time to book a trek on the Inca trail.  You have to book a year in advance if you are going at high season.  I really didn’t feel that I missed too much, but I do think that it would have put it higher on our list if we actually hiked the Inca Trail to the ruins.  But taking the train through the Andes and spending time in Aguas Calientas was certainly special in its own right.

2. Chitzen Itza

Dave at El Castillo, Chitzen Itza

Probably the most visited by tourists from Canada and the US, but it was one of our favorites.  Being the very first ruin that we ever visited makes it one of the most memorable.  Located in the Yucatan Peninsula of Mexico about 3 hours from Cancun, we had our most in depth tour of any temple that we have ever gone to.  We were staying at an all inclusive hotel, The Barcello Maya in 1999 and booked a day trip to Chitzen Itza, because some friends had told us that it was not to be missed.

I am glad that we listened.  We were amazed with how connected to the stars the Mayans were.  They seemed to know them intimately.  The entire complex was built for the heavens it seemed.  We couldn’t believe how everything lined up perfectly with other Mayan Ruins.  They built everything in precision without modern tools or technology.  It is unbelievable that during the Equinox at El Castillo, the sun hits the site perfectly and a shadow in the shape of a serpent snakes down its 365 steps. We were in awe of the impeccable sound in the Pok ta pok arena and yet we were a little shocked at the brutality of the Mayans.  They held sacrifices, they beheaded players of the Pok ta Pok game, it was a bloody society that is for sure.

We visited Chizen Itza at a perfect time.  I hear that you can no longer climb to the top of El Castillo.  That was an extraordinary experience.  Scary as it may have been, it was awe inspiring to stand high over the buildings and look into the jungle.  If you looked hard enough, you could imagine that you can see the other great Mayan Ruins of Tulum, Tikal or CoPan which we knew were in a straight line leading from the temple.

1. Tikal

Tikal, Guatemala

Arriving early in the morning, we sit high on the top of a temple overlooking the jungle and complex.  Howler monkeys roar in the distance and we sit mezmerised by its splendor content to just “Be”.

Located in Guatemala, Tikal is one of the least visited Mayan Ruins. What struck us the most about the complex was the mounds of unexcavated temples.  Set in the middle of the jungle, much of the temples are left exactly as they were found.  We would walk along a path and look to our right to see huge triangular hills covered in vegetation and then we would realize that it is a temple. Incredible.

If we stopped long enough and stood silently still, we could watch spider monkeys, toucans and parrots play above.  We quickly learned how to spot them regularly.  If you look hard enough and stay still long enough, the wild life is everywhere.

I remember spending what seemed like hours watching leaf cutter ants carry their load along their path that has been so worn down that it looked like a mountain bike trail.  We loved watching their structure, discipline and organization.  They had their own little community going on.

One of the scariest things I had done in my life was walk to the top of Temple 2.  Temple 1 had been closed before we arrived because unlucky tourists had tumbled to their deaths, but lucky for us, Temple 2 was still open. At 38 meters high, the steep and narrow steps are not for the faint of heart, and once you reach the top, it is a sheer fall to the ground.  Not railings or ropes to save you.  I was happy to be down, exploring the rest of the complex by foot but happy to have had the privilege to make it to the top of the temple and experience what the ancient Mayans felt centuries ago.

Honorable mentions- Tulum, Mexico; Ayutthaya, Thailand; Valley of the Kings and Hatchepsuts Temple,Luxor Egypt; Abu Simble, Lake Nasser Egypt

We still have to see many more, we will update as wel go.

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Myanmar’s Golden Rock. A Hidden Treasure

A fellow traveler in Borneo told me that he had left a little piece of his heart in Myanmar, I on the other hand left a little piece of my wallet.

We arrived at Yangon Airport and took a $4 cab ride to downtown. After settling into our guest house the Beautyland II, we took a walk to the sacred Sula Paya, a 2000 year old temple of worship and the place to change money on the black market

It didn’t take long for a man to approach us with a great exchange rate.  We handed him our $100 US  dollar bill and he handed us back 81,000 Kyats.  We recounted our money and verified that all was well and were on our way.  We were feeling very proud of ourselves accomplishing our first transaction on the black market with such ease and by negotiating a great rate.

Sule Pagoda, Yangon Myanmar

Soon another man approached us with an even better exchange rate and it was here that we let our guard down.
We agreed on 83,000 kyats to $100 USD.  The first 40,000 K was counted out and all was well.  Dave, my husband recounted the stack and then handed it to me.  Suddenly our little con man started acting paranoid and told me to hide the money in my bag because the police were everywhere.  I did as I was told and he proceeded to count out stacks of 10,000 at a faster pace, handing Dave each stack for him to verify.  Five stacks later and we were finished.  I put the money into my bag, the three  of us walked together talking about life in Yangon. I liked this fellow so much that I reached into my sack of cash and gave him a tip!  Upon returning to our hotel and recounting our money to stash some of it away, we noticed that we were 30,000 K short of our 164,000 k.

Vendors trying to sell us books

The next morning, after thoroughly reprimanding ourselves, we went to the travel agent behind the train station to book our bus to the Golden Rock.
We took our taxi to the Highway bus station 14 km out of the city, hopped on to our decrepit coach where we proceeded to sit in the overwhelming heat for another hour.  The bus station was full of vendors selling food and drinks and stacks of books and magazines.  They frantically looked through their stacks to find and English paper to offer us, but nothing was to be found except for some magazines with a few English word in their titles.  This didn’t stop them from tying to sell us them however.

Transportation up the mountain

The five hour bus ride, an hour of waiting in the back of an overly crowded pick up truck where my legs fell asleep from the lack of circulation, and then the grueling climb with our packs to the top of the mountain, was definitely worth the effort.

Myanmar’s fabled Golden Rock. A sacred monument balancing on the side of mount Kyaiktiyo. The giant boulder perched on the side of a mountain, threatens to plunge into the Valley below.  A pagoda is built on its top and it is covered in solid gold leaves that people leave as an offering to the Gods.

Golden Rock, Myanmar

Legend has it that the rock is balancing on the hair of Buddha; given to a hermit by Buddha himself, who in turn found a boulder which resembled his own head. He built a small Stupa on its top and pilgrims have made their way to see it ever since.
It is not clear as to how this spectacle has balanced on this cliff with almost half of its base hanging over.  It has survived for centuries, weathering  earthquakes and erosion.

We reached the top at 7:00pm only to find out that the hotel where we wanted to stay was $25 not the $10 that we were expecting.  We made the decision to hike the three hours down in the dark to stay in Kin Mon the village at the base of the mountain.  Resolving ourselves to the walk ahead, we rummaged through our packs to find our flashlights.  The next thing we knew a man from the entrance office came to tell us that they would waive the entrance fee and allow us to see the rock for free.  They felt that this was an important sight and it

Night time at Balancing Rock, Kyaiktiyo

shouldn’t be missed.  It was the nicest thing that had happened to us on our trip and we thanked them profusely bowing, shaking hands and being in complete shock at their generosity.

It was an exhilarating experience.  We were the only westerners on sight among hundreds of worshipping families and monks.  People approached us to practice their English, to have their pictures taken with us and to just have a look at these two people who have come to see their national treasure. A crowd of people followed us a we walked around the grounds.

We walked underneath its base to further examine this phenomenon, We felt assured by the fact that it has been standing for centuries and has yet to topple over, but we couldn’t explain how it managed to do so.  Only  men were allowed to approach the rock and to feel it’s magic.  It is said to bring prosperity in the year ahead.

Dave at Balancing Rock, Myanmar

Dave walked through the gate and felt its pure gold leaf finish while I watched from a distance. We are both looking forward to the riches that he will be receiving this year!

The people that we met travelling were thrilled to have us visit their country, they knew several facts about our country  of Canada and genuinely appreciated our conversations.  It is a country left off of many people’s travel itinaries in South East Asia, but they are missing out on one of the friendliest and moving experiences you will have.
Our Governments have put sanctions on Myanmar and has told our citizens to  boycott the country. We asked many people in private conversations if they wanted the world to follow this advice and heir answers were a resounding No.  They only ask that we do not visit on package tours which fatten the pocket of the repressive government officials.

Children love to have their photo taken

For many, the only way they have to  make money is through tourism as guides, taxi drivers, horse cart tours and bicycle rentals among many other businesses.  When former students who were previously imprisoned are now working as private guides to tourists, it shows me that tourism is something that is welcomed.  It gives them an income that they would otherwise not have, a voice to the outside world and a chance to show off a country that even though it has a government whom they hate, they are still proud of it’s people and it’s beauty.

Shwedagon Pagoda

If you are a careful traveler, you can minimize the amount of money that goes into the wrong hands.  By taking local transport,  staying in family run guesthouses not the luxurious hotels built for package tours, using local guides, and eating in small establishments and buying from the market, you can give hope to a people who are in desperate need of help.  You can’t avoid everything, but I believe that the more people that go to a country, the more it will eventually open up and give the people a better way of life.

To those who have left Myanmar off of their Asian adventure, put it back on.  To those who have taken our governments advice, ignore it, and to others who have never really thought about Myanmar before, give it a look. It’s breathtaking scenery, unspoiled countryside, friendly people, and thriving tradidtion, make it a must stop for anyone looking for something different.

A Monk with his sons. Last day of his 2 weeks of service.

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