The ruins of Angkor Wat

It has been six years since we’ve been in South East Asia. We are back in Thailand and it feels as if nothing has changed.  We talk to other travelers and they tell us their stories of visiting Cambodia and Laos for the first time and we see the excitement in their eyes as they list off the places they have seen.  Angkor Wat was a place of distant wonder for us during our first trip to Sout East Asia in 2000.  People told us about these ruins in the jungle, but we never thought we would never get there.   It was 3 years later when we came back to this part of the world and truly explored the countries of the region that we made it to these fabled temples.

The ruins of Angkor Wat are expansive to say the least. Some people spend days exploring them, others weeks. The way the jungle overtook the buildings is one of the things that makes Angkor Wat visually spectacular.  In this photo you can see the roots of the jungle trees growing right through and around the temples.

When we first traveled to Thailand in the year 2000, we met an American traveler on the train to Chang Mai. He spoke of a mystical temple in Cambodia that was completely deserted, and how he walked around for days exploring in solitude.

We hadn’t done a lot of traveling before that time and we didn’t know anything about Asia. Thailand was our first step into the world of backpacking, but when he spoke of these temples, we knew that we had to visit them one day soon.

Skip ahead four years and we found ourselves on a bus from Bangkok to Siam Reap to see the legendary Angkor Wat in Cambodia.  This majestic complex consists of hundreds of temples covering 500 acres of land. Where once it was abandoned and looted of precious pieces, it is now a thriving tourist attraction receiving over a half a million visitors a year. With admission being $20 per day it is a real deal by western standards.

We booked the super VIP Tourist bus from downtown Bangkok and road in style all the way to the Cambodian border.  But once we reached Poi Pet, it was another story. Hassled by touts and money changers, problems and delays with our visa, we finally made it through by overpaying the customs officer for our entry and leaving behind a photo of myself that I guess he wanted for his collection.

After finally making it through, we hopped on a tuk tuk which took us on an incredibly long journey…around the corner.

It was here that we were transferred to our real mode of transportation. A van that could hold 12 comfortably, but we managed to cram in 20 people and 2 guides of some kind that stood to the side. With luggage piled high over our heads we started the long ride to Siem Reap.

I don’t know what the roads are like today, but they were completely impossible to drive on then. Giant pot holes, bumps everywhere and non existent bridges, it took hours of being jolted around until we finally made our way to town.  With a slight case of whip lash, we stopped at a guest house recommended by our driver.

Arriving at Siem Reap

We were too tired to move, so we stayed where he stopped and surprisingly, it turned out to be a fantastic place.

While relaxing over an Angkor beer, we chatted with the staff of our guest house. They told us that we should go to see the sunset over Angkor Wat first and then see the ruins the following day. One guy offered to take us to sunset for free if we would agree to have him as our guide through the Angkor Wat complex the next day. We agreed and felt great about having things fall nicely into place.

We wrote down what we had for drinks and went to bed.

The Honour system throughout Cambodia

One thing I was amazed with in Cambodia is that every guest house worked on the honor system. You would take beer and water freely and simply write down how many you had each night. At the end of your stay you would settle your tab.  It seemed to work fine, I don’t think anyone tried to cheat the owners. I noticed everyone would take their beer, go to the notebook and write down their order.  With beer that cheap, why would you try anyway?

Around Sieam Reap

The next day we spent walking around town looking at the Colonial Building in the Old French Quarter and popped into the Market.   It was certainly an experience. Live fish splashed around in shallow pools of water as women cleaned them with quick skill and speed.  Stalls lined the walkway with fresh meat, fruit, herbs and souvenirs all the souvenirs that you need at a fraction the price of the stores in town or shops at Angkor.

Then we met our guide at late afternoon and hopped on the tuk tuk to the temples of the legendary Angkor Wat.  The mood took a solemn turn when we witnessed the aftermath of a motorcycle accident and a dead man lay in the middle of the road with a leaf over his face. I have never been able to shake that scene from my mind after all this time.

But we moved on and were at Bakheng Hill. It was no longer the tranquil setting that our American friend told us about.  No, Angkor Wat had now turned into Grand Central Station.  Hundreds of tourists were walking the hill together, jockeying for position to see the sun go down over the temples and trying to find a clear spot to take a tourist free photo.

But the scope and beauty of the place could not be denied and as the sun went down and the hot air balloons went up, it was a magical moment in time.

The next day we were up bright and early for sunrise at the temples.  This could have easily been skipped and if we had it to do over again, we would move on. Standing with hundreds of other tourists waiting for the sun to come up was not worth the wait and we missed precious time discovering more of the other great temples of Angkor.

Temple at Angkor Wat

The rest of the day was spent outrunning tour buses and trying to stay one step ahead of the crowds.  Luckily we had our own private guide, so we could dictate when to leave and where to go. We managed to keep away from the crowds wit a lot of effort.

Best of Angkor Wat

Highlights included a climb up the main temple of Angkor Wat. It is well preserved and a breathtaking sight. Being the most famous image of the temple, its five main towers jut into the air as high as 66 meters from its 1.6km long base. The climb is steep and a little scary, but well worth the view.

The trees of Ta Prom Temple

We witnessed the strength of Mother Nature first hand at the temple of Ta Prom. Left in its original state, vines and roots twist trough the complex breaking apart solid rock as trees rise through its rood far into the air.

The most impressive temple of Angkor to me was Angkor Tom.  Two rows of imposing statues of 54 Gods and 54 Demons line the causeway leading up to the temple.  This was the image that I saw on a travel show a couple of years earlier that enthralled me, and I couldn’t believe that I was standing right in the center of it all.

Over the years, the temple had been heavily looted and heads of the statues stolen and missing, but great efforts are being made in restoration, and some of the Demons and Gods remain in tact.

Too Much Angkor Wat?

One can spend days exploring the temples, but 12 solid hours of checking out ruin after ruin made Dave and I have our fill.  We were officially sunburned, dehydrated and “templed out.”

Our guide couldn’t believe it sometimes when we would pull up to yet another grand ruin and we simply said to keep going.  We had had our fill and were ready to head back to our beds.

Angkor Wat was certainly one of the most impressive structures on the planet and we were privileged to have seen her.  I will never forget driving up to the complex and seeing Angkor Wat standing proudly over the water.

I will never forget the adorable little girl that sold us post cards as she recited our capital city of Canada. My heart broke as I watched these children try so hard to sell their books, bracelets and post cards. They were not allowed to cross the line as we explored and they weren’t treated well by officials.  They told us stories of how they need to save money to go to school.  It was probably a lie or scam, but still, no child should have to sell goods to grumpy tourists all day long.  They should be out playing or in school learning.

But that is another story..

We have been lucky enough to see some of the most magnificent sights on earth.  The ones that always seem to amaze us the most are the incredible ruins and temples of the world. To understand how they were made with such precision and how they have endured over the centuries is mind boggling.  Each ruin that we have traveled to has always had something in common with another, even if they are on the other side of the world.

Here is a list of our favorite ruins in the world that we had visited.

6. Angkor Wat

Tree Growing out of Ta Prom Temple at Angkor Wat

Located in Cambodia this majestic complex consists of hundreds of temples covering 500 acres of land. Mother nature has done her work well reclaiming the land once ruled by the Khmer Empire. The jungle had almost swallowed up the temples of Angkor, until great efforts were made in restoration. In recent years many temples have been restored to their original grandeur. The Main Temple of Angkor Wat is well preserved and a breathtaking sight. Its five main towers jut into the air as high as 66 meters (215 ft) from its 1.6 km (1 mile) long base.You can witness the strength of nature by visiting the temple of Ta Prom. Left in its original state, vines and roots twist through the complex breaking apart solid rock as trees rise through its roof far into the air. Not to be missed is Angkor Tom. Imposing statues of 54 Gods and 54 Demons line the causeway leading up to the temple.

I think that Angkor Wat would have been number 1 on our list if we had visited 5 years earlier.  From what I heard, you could walk through the ruins for hours without seeing another person.  However when we visited it in 2004, we spent most of our time having our tuk tuk driver  outrun tour buses.  At sunset on Bakhen Hill, you can overlook the entire land, but it wasn’t quite as special when you were jockeying for a position and trying to see over the other hundreds of tourists heads.  Never the less it is well worth a visit.

5. Pyramids of Giza

Dave & Deb At Pyramids of Giza

The first pyramids I had ever heard about as a child.  Wow, the pyramids of legend and the top of most peoples “must see” lists.  We finally made it to the piéce de resistance of all of the pyramids in the world.  Driving through Cairo, you can see the pyramids from almost everywhere.  When we landed at the airport and took our minivan to our hotel, I could see them out the window and couldn’t wait to get up close and personal.

The most incredible way to see them is to hire a camel and guide.  You start walking through the maze of back streets getting a real taste of Cairo and then you walk into the desert riding high on its back. Definitely feeling like we were Lawrence of Arabia, we fantasized about how it must have felt to come upon these great monuments after a long caravan in the desert.

We were spoiled as well and got to the Pyramids twice.  Riding in the Tour d’Afrique, we were lucky enough to cycle to the Pyramids of Giza at sunrise.  Nobody else was around and we had them all to ourselves, stopping at the Sphynx and riding along side camels and their guides getting ready for the day.

Maybe it is because we had seen many temples and ruins before visiting this number one attraction in the world that it is only number 4 on our list, but we have enjoyed others that we found to be far more magical.

4.Bagan

Thatbyinnyu Pahto Temple; Bagan, Myanmar

Definitely the least visited Ruin that we have ever visited. Bagan is a wonder of Asia. Located in Myanmar (Burma) we took a ferry from Mandalay on the Irrawady River to the ruins.  This Buddhist complex was built in 1057 and covers 16 square miles.

We hired a horse cart to take us through the complex and it was magical.  Time stands still in most of Burma and this feeling is even heightened in Bagan.  Farmers ride by on their ox carts, very few many locals pray at the temples and monks walk the street in the morning searching for alms.

Like most other ruins, the highlight is walking to the top of  the highest temple; Thatbyinnyu Pahto to overlook the complex.  But one of the most extraordinary temples is Ananda Pahto.  Inside stands 4 giant Buddhas and two sacred Buddha footprints. Visiting Bagan made a believer out of me! It is a spiritual sight that gives off a feeling of calm and peace.

What we loved about Bagan was how we could enter almost all of the temples.  We studied their scriptures up close and checked out the architecture.  This was actually the only ruin that we spent 2 full days exploring.  It is just to big and extraordinary.

It is sad that this extraordinary site is located in a country run by a military junta.  They unfortunately are doing a terrible job restoring the pagodas. Shoddy work with no care for staying with its original design.  But the temples that are restored and have weathered time are an incredible sight and worth a visit.  It would have been higher on the list if the government didn’t repress its people so much.  How can we give a site top marks if it isn’t staying true to the message of its ancestors and respecting its people.

3. Machu Picchu

Deb at Machu Picchu

Nestled high in the Andes Mountains of Peru, at 2500 meters it is certainly the most extraordinary ruin on the planet.  How did the Incas build this incredible complex so high on the side of a cliff?  Built in the 1400′s Machu Picchu is remarkably well preserved.  Arriving early in the morning, it is shrouded in cloud, but as the sun rises and burns off the fog, a majestic vision unfolds.  200 buildings, terraced high on the side of the mountain surrounded by jungle, vegetation and clear blue skies.

The highlight is looking at the entire complex from an adjacent peak.  Sitting on a ledge plunging into the abyss, I was a little worried about the children running around and hanging their feet over the side.  But the breathtaking views quickly drew my focus back to the temples.  Luckily no one fell over, and I could enjoy its beauty as Llama’s and El Paccas grazed in a step below.

We should have hired a guide for our journey throughout the complex and because we went to Peru on a whim, we didn’t have time to book a trek on the Inca trail.  You have to book a year in advance if you are going at high season.  I really didn’t feel that I missed too much, but I do think that it would have put it higher on our list if we actually hiked the Inca Trail to the ruins.  But taking the train through the Andes and spending time in Aguas Calientas was certainly special in its own right.

2. Chitzen Itza

Dave at El Castillo, Chitzen Itza

Probably the most visited by tourists from Canada and the US, but it was one of our favorites.  Being the very first ruin that we ever visited makes it one of the most memorable.  Located in the Yucatan Peninsula of Mexico about 3 hours from Cancun, we had our most in depth tour of any temple that we have ever gone to.  We were staying at an all inclusive hotel, The Barcello Maya in 1999 and booked a day trip to Chitzen Itza, because some friends had told us that it was not to be missed.

I am glad that we listened.  We were amazed with how connected to the stars the Mayans were.  They seemed to know them intimately.  The entire complex was built for the heavens it seemed.  We couldn’t believe how everything lined up perfectly with other Mayan Ruins.  They built everything in precision without modern tools or technology.  It is unbelievable that during the Equinox at El Castillo, the sun hits the site perfectly and a shadow in the shape of a serpent snakes down its 365 steps. We were in awe of the impeccable sound in the Pok ta pok arena and yet we were a little shocked at the brutality of the Mayans.  They held sacrifices, they beheaded players of the Pok ta Pok game, it was a bloody society that is for sure.

We visited Chizen Itza at a perfect time.  I hear that you can no longer climb to the top of El Castillo.  That was an extraordinary experience.  Scary as it may have been, it was awe inspiring to stand high over the buildings and look into the jungle.  If you looked hard enough, you could imagine that you can see the other great Mayan Ruins of Tulum, Tikal or CoPan which we knew were in a straight line leading from the temple.

1. Tikal

Tikal, Guatemala

Arriving early in the morning, we sit high on the top of a temple overlooking the jungle and complex.  Howler monkeys roar in the distance and we sit mesmorized by its splendor content to just “Be”.

Located in Guatemala, Tikal is one of the least visited Mayan Ruins. What struck us the most about the complex was the mounds of un-excavated temples.  Set in the middle of the jungle, much of the temples are left exactly as they were found.  We would walk along a path and look to our right to see huge triangular hills covered in vegetation and then we would realize that it is a temple. Incredible.

If we stopped long enough and stood silently still, we could watch spider monkeys, toucans and parrots play above.  We quickly learned how to spot them regularly.  If you look hard enough and stay still long enough, the wild life is everywhere.

I remember spending what seemed like hours watching leaf cutter ants carry their load along their path that has been so worn down that it looked like a mountain bike trail.  We loved watching their structure, discipline and organization.  They had their own little community going on.

One of the scariest things I had done in my life was walk to the top of Temple 2.  Temple 1 had been closed before we arrived because unlucky tourists had tumbled to their deaths, but lucky for us, Temple 2 was still open. At 38 meters high, the steep and narrow steps are not for the faint of heart, and once you reach the top, it is a sheer fall to the ground.  Not railings or ropes to save you.  I was happy to be down, exploring the rest of the complex by foot but happy to have had the privilege to make it to the top of the temple and experience what the ancient Mayans felt centuries ago.

Honorable mentions- Tulum, Mexico; Ayutthaya, Thailand; Valley of the Kings and Hatchepsuts Temple,Luxor Egypt; Abu Simble, Lake Nasser Egypt

We still have to see many more, we will update as wel go.