Ode to Bombay

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Ode To Bombay

Downtown Fort Area Mumbai

Oh Mumbai, we wish we had more time with you.  We love your colonial buildings, your pulsating energy, your friendly people and your scenic waterfront.
Alas, you were too much for these two backpackers.  At Christmas time your prices soar and we could not afford to stay in India’s thriving city for more than 3 days.
How we would have loved to visit the Prince of Whales Museum, Gandhi’s museum and Elephant Island.

Pricey Hotels

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We searched for reasonable accommodation, and yet we could not find a thing.  All places were booked as you are quite popular during the holidays.
We settled on a lovely hotel called The Residency in the Fort District.  It was a luxury that we enjoyed.

3800 Rs ($87) got us a soft bed with duvet, television with HBO hot shower and concierge.  We paid the 200 Rs for Wifi and stayed in bed all day long enjoying room service, air conditioning, talking with family on skype and the sheer luxury of staying inside all day long. It can be difficult finding a place in Bombay and it is advisable to book ahead.

The Following Day

We were walking distance from all of the top sites and best parts of the city.  We strolled to Coloba to see the stunning Gate of India on the Arabian Sea. It is a giant arch built to commemorate the visit of King George V in 1911 and it was the place the last of the British exited the country.

Gate of India

You cannot go to Coloba without stopping in to have a look at the decadent Taj Mahal Tower.  It is undergoing a huge facelift and scaffolding in construction is in full force.  Security is tight since the 2008 bombings, but if it doesn’t stop the tourists from flocking to the area to see.   We enjoyed lunch and a milkshake at the very popular bar and hip restaurant called Leopolds.  All travelers eventually make their way here, and it was filled evenly with scruffy foreigners and trendy locals.

Cannot stay in Bombay

Rickshaw in behind Bombay train Station

There came a time that we had to move as the Residency was fully booked.  We knew this would happen, when we arrived they barely had a room available, and told us that we would have to stay day by day as they are booked through to the New Year.  Each morning we would phone downstairs to see if we could stay another day.  On Christmas Day our luck ran out.
They found us another place in Churchgate, the Astoria hotel was a little older, but quite grand.  Our room was like a suite with a seperate room to store our luggage and a walk through to our bathroom.  We had satellite TV and a comfortable bed.
We enjoyed this part of town even more than Coloba and Fort.  It is a beautiful spot close to the water near the cricket fields of the Oval Maiden.  We even received the discounted rate of 3300 rupees since we were coming from their sister hotel.
Here we discovered the upscale charm of Bombay.  Indian tourists and local residents walked on the wide and spacious waterfront path.  Luxury hotels lined the seashore and café and eateries were a plenty.

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Mumbai Movies

We went to the INOX theater and watched Avatar in 3D. Eating popcorn in modern amenities with wealthy Indian families.  It was sold out and we snatched the last 2 seats.  While Avatar is popular and doing well here in India, the big hit at the moment in 3 Idiots, a local made Bollywood flick.
The food court was a treat to munch on a veggie sub at subway.
It all felt just like home except for the fact that we were searched and scanned and walking through metal detectors when entering each building.

Leaving too Soon

We ended our time in Bombay quickly.  Across the water we could see new Mumbai and wished that we had a few more days to explore the skyscrapers across the bay.
Money was leaving our pockets a little too freely here however and we had our ticket waiting for Rajasthan.
At least we witnessed the grand old train station and lovely buildings that line Mahatma Gandhi Road. We sampled the food and we walked and we walked as we always do when we visit a new city.

Taxi Fare

Taxi in Mumbai

We took a taxi even though they were supposed to only charge 15 Rs for 1 km plus 7 Rs for each after.  We paid the 50 Rs that they asked for because when we tried to bargain, they would drive away.  We were surprised that the taxi would rather have no fare rather than to give a foreigner the proper price.

Goodbye Mumbai, or as so many local people continue to call you, Bombay. Until we meet again.  We look forward to exploring everything that you have to offer and we know that we will be back one day soon, but for now, an adventure is awaiting us in the rest of this great country called India.

Mumbai