How to cross a Ukrainian Border
We were originally going into Moldova. The map said that we’d be crossing into the country from Romania and driving for about an hour before reaching the Ukrainian border. Once we got to the border patrol in Romania, we were told different.
It all started when we were told that the … portion of Moldova wasn’t safe for travel. The night before, we changed our plans to make our route through Moldova a little shorter and a lot more to the South.
It seemed simple enough.
While we waited in line at passport control, Land Cruisers and tough looking guys surrounded us with gorgeous wives by their side. We joked that this must be where the Russian Mafia crosses.
It was a few minutes later that a Romanian man came up to our car and told us that we should move to the much shorter EU passport holders only line. He said it was the “unofficial” line for EU Holders and anyone else,” The line we were in was especially for Ukraine and Russian citizens only.
After we moved, we chatted with him for awhile and he told us that we would have been there forever as it is a big border crossing for Russian mafia!
When I told him that we were going to the Ukraine he said to me “my advice for the Ukraine, Don’t stop”
Now That’s Comforting.
It wasn’t long before we were through the Romanian border and we thought it was smooth sailing from here on in. But the problems ensued once we were on the Moldova side of the border.
Border Headaches
Waiting for too long at the Moldovan/Ukrainian Border
The first thing anyone says to us at any border crossing is “You don’t have proper documents for your car.” And today was no exception.
Here is what happened…
The first person to deal with us at the Moldova border informed us that we didn’t have the proper documentation for our car and left us on our own for about 15 minutes. No surprise there.
After a while, two other officials came out to deal with us. One man told us that he will let us through, but that his colleague who was standing right beside him, would not. Obviously there were some arguments going on behind closed doors and they had come to a stale mate.
His colleague, a blond bombshell in high heels and skin-tight pants told us that we would not be able to enter Ukraine. If she let us through, we would simply be turned around at the Ukrainian Border and would be right back to their border crossing within a few minutes.
If we did get through to the Ukraine, they would charge us a 7,000€ car deposit and then refund it once we left the country.
Yeah, Fat Chance we were going to count on that.
We started our Border Crossing Incident at 6:26 pm
They left us again.
A little while later another group of officials came back and asked Rick if he was from Russia because his passport said Georgia. However, he’s from Atlanta Georgia so we were good. No Russian Mafia in this car.
He then asked us if we were Canadian and did we speak French. “Une Petite Peu” we said.
Everything Changed after that.
Thank God, Dave took French immersion in school and it all came flooding back to him in a time of crisis. Vasil, as we learned his name was later, talked to us in French explaining our situation and how we would not be allowed into the Ukraine with this permit.
He called ahead to ask them and they said no.
We couldn’t understand who he was calling ahead to, because we were at the Moldova border. Why would he be calling someone in the Ukraine? But it all became clear when he decided to drive with us to the next stop.
It turns out, the Ukraine border is 1 km away. We don’t even have the option of entering Moldova at this border crossing. It is a road that goes directly to the Ukiraine.
When he said he called ahead to the next country, that is exactly what he was doing. He was calling his buddies at the next border crossing down the road.
Lucky Vasil is immigrating to Canada.
As we drove to the next border, Vasil explained to us that he had been to Montreal and he is in the process of immigrating to Canada. He has been working on getting his entire family there for two years and he could be in Quebec in as early as November.
He took a liking to Dave (as everyone does) and told him that he decided to help us because he loves Canada and hopes that we will return the favour when he comes to our country. If he ever has any problems or needs any advice, can he call us? “Of course” we said!
We left Sherry and Rick behind.
Sherry and Rick were left in Moldova as Dave and I went to the Ukraine to discuss our options. Vasil, told us to wait outside while he talked to his friend from the Ukraine. About 15 minutes later, he came out to tell us that everything was ok and they would let us pass.
Now we just had to go back and get Sherry and Rick.
Vasil and Dave and I exchanged emails and telephone numbers (mom and dad, if a guy from the Former Soviet Union calls, you’ll now know who it is) and we thought the ordeal would be over. Guess we were wrong.
Insurance.
We still had one more obstacle. When we first arrived a blond bombshell of a female border patrol officer named Natasha told us that if they allowed us into Moldova we would have to buy the 50€ transit insurance for our vehicle.
She didn’t forget this, and as Vasil took away our passports to stamp us out of the country. Natasha took Rick and I to the customs office to pay for our insurance. Rick had left over Romanian currency so we decided to pay for that with his money rather than using our Euros, US cash or paying by credit card.
Only insurance to go.
Of course when we got to the customs office, the official was nowhere to be found. Natasha told us to wait here and left us alone to wait.
After about 15 minutes, the official came back and one of his minions brought him our paperwork. They exchanged words in only a way that the Russians and Ukrainians can with an air of disgust and impatience and denied our insurance.
“You do not have the proper paperwork” he said.
We explained to him through our new translator, the duty free girl, that Vasil and Natasha had taken care of everything and that the Ukraine was allowing us through. He didn’t care. Even as his entire office seemed to gang up on him he ignored our plight. From the bits and pieces I got from the conversation, I got the feeling that everyone was saying to him
“Come on buddy, what’s your problem?” “They are only driving through Moldova in transit.” “They’ll be in another country in 10 minutes!”
At that moment Vasil came in to explain the situation. The officer seemed even more disgusted with him and after a few strong words, he sent us away. As we walked back to the border, Vasil looked at me and said “this is crazy!”
Now What?
It was a little while later that Natasha called Dave into the office. He was gone for about 10 minutes when he came back with the news that Natasha had offered to escort us across the border for 200€
Dave said no and got here down to 50€ and asked her how much in Romanian Lei. She worked the conversion out in her mind and said 150 Lei. We were fine with that. It was originally going to cost us 200 Lei for the transit insurance so we were getting a bargain.
Well, I think Natasha figured out that as well.
When Dave went back to her and handed her the 150 Lei, she took the 100 Lei note and wrote the number 2 on it. Looks like we would have to pay 50€ after all.
But hey, at least we were getting ourselves to the Ukraine!
What happens in the Ukraine is another story…
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22 Responses to How to cross a Ukrainian Border
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OMG? What an experience. No wonder you are only able to stay one night in each location, if this is what you have to go thru at crossings, so time consuming. Thank you for such a detailed account, seems like a scene from an indie movie…
Love this! Okay maybe you didn’t but it’s terribly entertaining with my coffee this morning! The pic with Dave and the officers is hilarious! The hats, the expressions…it looks like a bad movie! Good luck!!
Ha! The big hat squad. Always fun encounters with them. Had a similar issue trying to leave Kazakhstan. Glad you made it through but I have a feeling that this won’t be the last ‘big hatter’ you encounter. Good luck.
Gotta love eastern Europe…
Hey!
So sorry you had to go through all that, though I did not really understand of Vasyl and Natasha were actually at Moldova border or at Ukrainian border.. Sometimes custom people can probably have some ‘agreements’ between each other, and who knows – maybe they would have let you through in Ukrainian border, but you were convinced otherwise. Though can’t be super confident in Ukrainian side either
Anyways, I hope this border accident won’t be your only impression in Ukraine, and you will have great experiences crossing my country! If you ever at any point of time need assistance, let me know. We’d be glad to help out!
Oksana
Oh goodness the patience travelers need to have! What a crazy ordeal. Hope it goes a little smoother from here.
Wow this brings back memories! We have family in the Ukraine and have driven there twice (from the uk) Crossing the border both on the way in and they way out is always an experience!
I rememberlast time we were surrounded by black land rovers like you, but we couldn’t believe when the owners started casually stashing drugs in the side panels! No trying to cover it up what so ever! They we’re just putting them in there in broad day light. I remember thinking, is there even any point hiding them if you’re going to be so open about it?
It caused an argument between my mum and dad because my dad wanted to report them to the border guards, but my mum was worried that he would be seen or the guards would be crooked (which from experience I can tell you they usually are) and you don’t want to get on the wrong side of these people!
Having a UK registration plate on your car doesn’t help either! Once while waiting in the huge queue to leave the country (literally thousands of cars in a single file line) we are approached by border guards who say in one way or another bribe us to let you through or otherwise we are going to get our friends here (Think stereotypical butch soviet guys who probably replace the milk on their cornflakes with vodka) are going to bounce your car on its suspension out of the line! To them seeing a UK number plate signals wealth and you’re an instant target.
Sure enough, my Dad slipped some money, I’m not sure of the exact amount into his passport and handed it to the guard, who slyly pretended to check the passport while pocketing the money. No problems after that!
The Mafia aren’t always bad though, our family in L’viv got the mafia to lock our car up somewhere safe while we were staying!
So really, well done for getting through!
Jozef, I love your comment. It is amazing and surreal. I can totally believe the guys stashing their drugs out in the open. They looked so much like mafia, they were just screaming “i’m a criminal” and yet they were getting through much faster than we were. We kept joking that if we just had a few hundred Euros that we were willing to part with, we’d be through in 10 minutes. Keep the stories coming, we love them!
ah, border crossings…. I passed through many in my days, but this story might top them all….it’s all for the experience… it’s why you do the mongol rally, well this a good time, charity, and the thrill of adventure. keep on keeping on.
stay adventurous, Craig
Ps – my most difficult crossing – Canada on route to Montreal. Good luck Vasil.
Hey Craig, it certainly makes for great story telling. I have actually heard that sometimes getting into Canada can be very tough. I apologize for my country:)
Little wonder how Russia lost the Cold War….
Wow! That’s all I can say. lol
Wow! Gotta love the random pricing of your “options” at border crossings.
Haha, that is exactly it. I think they would do a better job if they had their conversions clearer in their heads. Lucky for us, they couldn’t get the number straight when they tried to do the conversions of currency:)
Quite a story of international intrigue. Good information for those of us who may go through the same thing someday. How lucky that you came across Vasil and that Dave knows French! Can’t wait to hear what happened in the Ukraine.
Thanks Cathy, the funny thing was both Dave and Vasil have pretty basic French levels, but they were equally struggling and enjoying the practice:)
That seems like the most unofficial official crossing, right? Makes you wonder where the money goes…
Something tells me it goes to a lot of different people. I don’t think anyone can take a bribe without sharing it with their superiors and colleagues. But that just a hunch I have,I’m definitely no expert:)
It sounds like they just wanted bribes all along – the reason I always keep small notes from about 50 currencies in my wallet at all times. Seriously. Though only ever had to bribe on a couple of occasions, a Mexican and a South African, I’ve heard so many stories over the years, we always go prepared. And, hey, they do make good stories, don’t they?
Ummmmm, photos of the blond bombshell, please!!
Hilarious!
and you gotta love the fact that being Canadian helped you out in a big way! Go Canada!
Hilarious! Crossing borders is always an interesting experience…this one especially!